Auto body repair & detailing: light body repair, grit sandpaper, approximate shape


Question
This doesn't involve and collision damage, but still...same catagory of "help" I think. I hope you can advise.
I recently bought a '71 Chevy C10. Not many body issues except for some really bad fiberglass/bondo repair work on passenger side door and front on the bed. The entire truck though, needs a good sanding and priming first. Although I'm willing to do the work by hand(sanding), an electric sander would be a LOT faster, but what type? Circular or vibrating?, and what is the best grit sandpaper to use in areas that just need to be buffed up for primer? Also...the tailgate is in need of some bondo work. Years ago, I was told that any area that covered more than a few inches wide, would benefit from the surface having several very tiny holes drilled in, so the bondo would create essentially "anchors" in the sheetmetal when it's worked in. Is this still a good idea?  Thanks a lot, as I have much to do on the truck, so any GOOD shortcut is appreciated!

Answer
CHUCK.....THE BEST SANDER IS WHAT THEY CALL A D.A. SANDER OR DUAL ACTION.
YOU CAN USE IT AS A SANDER AND ALSO SWITCH IT OVER TO A GRINDER BY SETTING THE PIN INWARDS.

THE DA SANDER WILL NOT GOUGE LIKE A GRINDER AND HAS AN ORBITAL SANDING MOTION THAT WORKS WELL.

GVEN THE AGE OF THE TRUCK YOU WOULD BE BETTER TO SAND DOWN WITH 180 GRIT THEN 320 GRIT.
PRIMER AFTER THAT AND YOU WILL BE GOOD .

AS FAR AS THE TAILGATE GOES THE METAL NEEDS TO BE WORKED OUT TO ITS APPROXIMATE SHAPE PRIOR
TO THE LOSS AND THEN FILLED.IF YOU DO NOT HAVE HAVE THE CORRECT TOOLS TO DO WHAT THEY DO IN THE SHOPS THEN A DENT PULLER CAN BE USED.....BONDO OVER THE PULLED AREA.