Auto Parts: A/C Blows Weakly, 2000 chevy malibu, chevy malibu


Question
QUESTION: Hi, I've got a 2000 Chevy Malibu LS. I recently had my A/C system recharged since the air wasn't cool, but now the problem is that the air flow is very weak. Even when I turn it up as high as possible, th air doesn't blow very hard. I have to put my face right in front of the vents just to feel the air.   
I know if I take it to a mechanic they'll tell me I need to replace everything.  
Do you have any ideas as to what may be the problem?  

Thanks

ANSWER:      Sounds like your fan motor isn't doing the job.  This could be because it is bad (10 years old--GM blower motors go bad a lot), the relay/speed control is bad, or there is something in the plenum blocking the flow of air.  First thing to do is to run a hot wire directly from the battery to the hot terminal on the motor.  If it doesn't rev up like a Pratt & Whitney, then the motor is bad.  Diagnosis of the speed control or relay is best left to a pro; let him check on any blockage in the system, too.  I had a car in which a mouse had chewed all of the insulation out of the system and built a very cozy nest right next to the blower motor.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for your help. I had my friend who works on cars take a look. He said it is NOT the blower motor.  In addition, he realized that no matter how I set the A/C flow (from dash, from dash and underneath, just underneath, windsheild), the flow comes from ALL areas. In other words, the knob doesn't work. That explains why the air from the dash has a weak flow, because it's coming out of every vent.  He took the panel off, and surmised that the panel needed replacing (it has 3 knobs, one for air flow strength, one to select hot or cold, and the third to select direction of flow (the one that isn't working).  Unfortunately the panel is $150, and he's not 100% sure that is the actual problem. Do you think it's the panel, or is there something else it could be?

THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH for your help. I wish shop mechanics could be trusted for this kind of stuff, but since it's often Russian Roulette with them, I really appreciate you helping me save money, especially since I don't have a lot of it.

ANSWER:      There are what they call "doors" built into the air handler box.  They direct the airflow to the different parts of the dash.  Generally they are operated by vacuum motors, which are little diaphragms that push or pull on the levers operating the doors.  What frequently happens is that you get a vacuum leak, either in one of the hoses bringing vacuum to the controls, one of the hoses connecting the controls to the motors, or in the vacuum reservoir under the hood.  It could even be the hose connecting the reservoir to the intake manifold, which is the source of all the vacuum used in the car for any purpose (except in Mercedes).  In older cars you could tell there was a vacuum leak because it would change idle speed.  Modern fuel injected cars just compensate for the leak by resetting the idle.  The easiest way to look for a leak is to get a small spray can of WD-40 and trace all the vacuum lines.  Spray each part of the vacuum system with a little WD-40.  If there is a leak, the vacuum line will suck in the WD-40 and it will pass into the intake system causing a brief change in the idle.  Once you determine the location of the leak you can replace the part; none of them are expensive.

    One other possibility is that one of the doors has somehow gotten bent, keeping it from moving.  You can check this by moving the door with your hand; it should move freely.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello again.  I'm at a bit of a loss and my A/C still isn't fixed.  The replacement A/C panel did not do anything, and I think the problem is exactly what you're saying it is; the only problem is I'm having a hard time with the "auto-speak".  The biggest thing I've ever done mechanic wise is change an alternator (following explicit instructions) or install a new stereo.  I'm afraid I'm going to have to take the car to the shop.  
The reason I am writing again is to ask you what the parts you described in your last message are called, so I can relay that info to the mechanic.  In your description is it the "air handler box", the "vacuum motors" the "take manifold", etc., that would be the problem area?  
Lastly in regards to this issue, do you have any idea what this type of repair might cost?  I know it depends on where the problem is specifically, but since the mechanic who works on it is going to have to find the problem, how much labor do you think that will entail?

Also, if you don't mind, I have another problem on my second car, and I just wanted to run it past you if that's okay. Long story short, I had the starter replaced on a 2003 Ford Taurus SES about 1 year ago.  I just bought the part and paid some guy to come to my place and do the job. Now, I'm having a similar problem again with getting the car to start.  The starter didn't go bad slowly. All of a sudden, like a week ago, the car wouldn't start at all. Then I tried again in the morning, and it started. Turned it off, and it wouldn't turn on again.  I ruled out electrical problems (battery, alternator), and gave the starter a few whacks, at which point the car started. Since then, it's been sporadically starting perfectly, or not starting at all.  Usually a few whacks to the starter gets it to turn over.  Do you think I just got a bad part and need to replace it again?  Or is it maybe just a loose connection?  

I can not thank you enough for all your help. I wish I was the kind of person who had the money to just drop it off at a mechanic as to not be troubled with all this, but I'm on disability so money is a little tight.  So really, I can't even begin to express my appreciation for your help with all these problems.  I guess all I can say is THANKS, and I hope Karma repays you in spades.  

Answer
    It would be either the air handler box, a vacuum motor, one of the doors in the box, or the vacuum supply (which would include all the vacuum hoses and reservoirs).  I have no idea how much it would cost, but they ought to be able to give you some sort of estimate.

    It sounds to me like your starter is defective.  The solenoid is sticking; striking it jars it loose.  You could go on using it for a long time, but having to hit the starter every time you want to start the car is a pain in the ass.  You'll want to check on the warranty for the starter.  I've seen everything from 90 days to lifetime, depending on the vendor.