Acura Repair: Removing driver-side front axel, lb hammer, soft hammer


Question
QUESTION: 1996 Acura 3.2TL I am trying to get to the starter motor, and it seems that I have to remove the left front axel. Can I get a procedure for doing this and any precaucions. Thx, Gary.

ANSWER: Hi Gary,

You have to remove the tire then the hub nut or Axle Nut, that's tough because it requires about 420lb's of pressure to release. After that you need to use a soft hammer to knock out the drive shaft from the hub. once that side is off use a large crow bar place it in between the drive shaft and the transmission and with a quick movement push. There is a ring in the transmission that holds the shaft in place you have to give it a quick jerk in order for the ring to dislodge. DO NOT pull the drive shaft as you may dislodge the U Joints in the boot and you don't want to do that. You may not need to remove it from the hub side, but it would be a lot easier if you did.

If there is anything else please ask,

Thank you,
Daniel

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thx Daniel for your follow up. I am concerned about the part where you say there is a ring in the xmission that holds the d/shaft in place. Is this ring internal and critical that I recover it? can i lose it. I have read blogs that say they use a 10 LB hammer to remove the axle from the xmission after all bolts have been removed. When you say that the hub nut or axle nut is tough, do you mean that an 18" breaker bar will not release it? I have air ratchets. I'm just afraid of dealing with the xmisson and removing the trans-axle. The blogs have told me horror stories about removing the axle including people trying to pry it of and snapping the flanges that the bolts go into in order to remove it.
They have said that they have to use a pry bar and a ten pound sledge hammer to release it. Is this correct and O.K.?? and what is the damage I can cause If done improperly? (other than stripped bolts). The trans axle appears to be going just above the oil pan. Is it lubricated by engine oil? If so, I need to know whether to drain eninge oil befor proceding. Thanks for your help!. P.S. Since it take a lot of force to dis-engage the axle, how much for is required to re-install it?  

Answer
Hi Gary,

For your first question the ring is located at the end of the cv shaft,  it is around the teeth of the cv shaft and is in a groove specially made for that ring. It is very difficult to damage that ring and I have yet to damage the ring or replace it. As soon as the Axle pops out you will see the ring on the end of the axle.

For your next question on removing the axle I like to use a fork separator also known as a tie rod/ball joint separator I place that in between the transmission and the axle and kick it, that usually does the trick. Are you using a hoist or are you doing it in your garage at home? Also I like using wood in between the transmission and the tool as wood is soft and will take the damage and save the transmission.

For your other question about the Hub Bolt an 18” breaker bar will not do the job, when I do it if I don’t use a 500LB air gun I use a 24” breaker bar with another 18” add on to that in order to pull it off. That and the cv shaft are your 2 biggest problems. I have tried jumping on a 24” bar and it will not budge. The more leverage the better, you will see the bar bend a lot, don’t worry, they don’t break usually. When removing the bold place a screw driver in the vents of your rotor in order to stop the hub from moving. Make sure your caliper is still there because that’s what the screw driver is going to be resting on. Another thing that will stress you out is every time you try to break that bolt loose your wheel will start to turn, before you start turn your wheel all the way to the left remove the key from the ignition and lock the wheel up, that always helps.

For your other questions I don’t believe there is any oil you have to worry about when removing the Axle, I have never encountered one that has had one. When you do put it bad in you will get frustrated as you may think you need a lot of pressure to place it back in but you don’t, all you need to do is jiggle it in slowly move back and forth and jiggle it will snap in place. Also place some engine oil with your finger around the teeth of the 2 ends and also the hub bolt.

The hub bold requires about 180Lbs on the torque wrench; you will see the pin of the bolt line up with the axle grove, which is where you use a punch to press the nut into the grove of the axle.

Good luck Gary this will get frustrating remember just step back and take a break when you do get frustrated or else you will make more mistakes.

If there is anything else don’t hesitate to ask,

Thank you,
Daniel