QuestionQUESTION: I've had this car in storage since 2005 because it blew the brake line. Everything worked fine including the A/C which doesn't get cold anymore. The R12 is low again that was done in '03.I had other cars but now I'm just back to this one so I finally brought it home. I drove it the mile or so home seemed fine because I did all the precautionary steps before I started it.Checked the codes nothing but the battery disconnect (52). About a week after I got it home it blew the fuel line which I repaired no problem. I decided I'd tackle the brake line as well. The car still has front brakes.This is the line to the rear brakes,which is probably what took out the fuel line since they're both together on the frame. I replaced it from the proportioning valve back. The bleed valves on the calipers are frozen of course and I've been soaking them for a week with PB. What I've come to find out is I filled the reservoir ,but the fluid is not going into the line. I have the dealer service manual which says the proportioning valve is keeping it locked out in order to supply the front brakes.So I'd like to know how do you get it to open again to the back ?? It doesn't tell you that in the service manual.
Thanks for your help,
-Mike-
ANSWER: Hello,
This is why I don't miss living in Wisconsin and the midwest where the idiots don't plow, they just throw out salt and calcium chloride which rots the bottom of the car out. Texas is so nice, not having to deal with that.
As for the bleeder screws, it take skill and a torch to turn the bleeder screws cherry red to get the screws loose without blowing out the seals. I was very familiar with using a gas ax (torch) for these issues as well as having to use a port a power between the frame and the tire, just to get the wheels off!
The proportioning valve on that car should be self centering, unlike the old Fords and AMCs where there was a pin to push.
Until you can gravity bleed the rear calipers, you are not going to know if fluid is getting back there.
What I did with a torch is try to heat up the boss very slightly where the bleeder screw goes into the caliper and in seconds turn the bleeder red. Then unscrew it turning it back and forth until it was loose. You do not want the acetylene torch on the screw very long. Propane rarely gets it hot enough.
The other problem I can see you having is the parking brake which if I remember right is similar to a threaded worm drive. Calipers are not all that expensive now and I would recommend replacing them anyway and flushing the fluid. The fluid is very old and I would be concerned about safety.
As for the A/C Walmart still sells 134A retro kits for about $40.00.
As I said, I do not envy you having a car from the rust belt. Neighbor has his rust 1993 Ford F-150 from Iowa with a blown brake line. He hasn't tackled it for over a month on the third go around.
Good luck!
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1985 Eldorado 
1985 Eldorado
QUESTION: Thanks for the info Rob. I will keep at it. I kind of figured you might have to get the line open to create pressure to recenter the valve.The manual did said something about 425 psi.Actually the car isn't that rusty for being a PA/OH car.it's not a show car just a nice survivor.The underside was heavily undercoated and rust proofed. It really is a gooey mess under there when you have to work on it. The only problem is where it peels on the frame and let's water underneath the coating. That has to be scraped and touched up to keep things stable. I've had the car for 12 years and I think it been rained on only once! It got a new fuel pump in 01' and a computer chip in 03'. Those are the only 2 things that ever stopped this car. It's always fired right up no matter how long it's sat. As for the AC I've heard of the kits, but there are all kinds of opinions online as to how good they are.Some people say just put it in and don't worry about it. Others say you have to evacuate the system and change this and that fitting or you'll ruin the compressor. So who's right ? Sounds as expensive as the R 12 if that's the case.
Thanks again for the help,
-Mike-
AnswerHi,
You are very welcome. As you said, the problem with undercoating is that it peels collecting water and causing rust. Its kind of a horse a piece. Undercoating can cause the car to rot from the bottom up, and no undercoating, you are screwed too because of the salt trucks.
That is one of the reasons I left Wisconsin.
I had to do a brake job on my Texas Lincoln. No fighting with the bolts. No rust. What a dream to work on after having to pry the wheels from my truck in Wisconsin.
It may be hot here, however I have a 1999 Suburban that looks like brand new with 190k on it. Also, boat is on the water 12 months of the year compared to 3 months in Wisconsin.
Let me know how everything works out on the brakes.
If you put 134a in a R12 system, acid will build up and will eventually eat the compressor and the condenser and that is the problem with retros. You should get some time out of it. You cannot mix 134a and r12 because there are different boiling points.
I haven't bought r12 fr years, but I hear it was upward of a $1,000 for 30 pounds. Like the R22 I have for the house. This is our wonderful EPA at work!
