QuestionQUESTION: Greeting.
I am working on an eagle talon. it will not start. it cranks over. It act as if it is about to start, but only chugs and dies. it has strong spark, and is get fuel to the rail and cylinders. All things originally pointed to a crank sensor. that was not it.
I have replaced the coil, wires, plus, and crank sensor. I have done electrical test for crank and cam sensor. the voltages are correct, on terminal 1 and 3. terminal 2 show continuity to ground with the ignition off, but gains a slight resistance once you turn the ignition on. I have injector pulse. I am getting fuel because the plugs keep fuel fouling.I have checked the timing belt. the cam are in time, but I have yet to check the crank timing. Any help you can give me I would greatly appreciate.
Sincerely
Michael L. Mason
ANSWER: Hi Michael,
Thanks for the complete history. Let me check the manual and get right back.
Have you tried to get fault codes using the ignition key:"On-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time? Then count the flashes before each pause of the check engine light, which remains 'on' after you do the key routine. Then repeat the process to assure an accurate set of flash counts. Then tell me the counts in order of appearance.
Roland
PS You could have an egr (exhaust gas recirculation valve) which is sticking slightly ajar which leans out the mixture too much to allow for an idle. So check that the valve stem moves back and forth freely, and closes by spring-action to a dead stop. If not, then spray the stem where it enters the valve body with WD-40 and work the stem some more. There is a slot in the stem into which the tip of a screwdriver can be inserted for the purpose of moving it. The valve is mounted on the rear of the exhaust manifold and the stem is between the body of the valve and the round vacuum actuator top, hidden by a flange.
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QUESTION: Ok I have replaced the cam sensor. when I checked the code I got a the standard codes (12) 54, 55. It is still trying to start, but it did backfire through the throttle body. which is new. I am thinking of pulling the timing cover to double check the timing belt. is it possible the the timing belt jumped a few teeth without damaging the belt, or getting the cams out of time?
Michael
AnswerHi Michael,
That is possible, and can be checked: with the crank sprocket set at 1/2 BTDC you should find the cam sproket aligned eith the mark on the rear cover. Because of the work involved in removing the lower cover you might want to simply remove the spark plug from the #1 cylinder and probe for the top of the cylinder head to detect when it apparently comes to TDC and then compare that with the cam mark which you should be able to visualize by remove the plug on the top cover. It should be a little past the mark when you determine the piston is a TDC. It should not be so much as a tooth 'off'. Of course if you don't see the cam mark at all then rotate the crank another 360 to get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke.
Because of the persistence of the 54 code you would also do well to put a voltmeter between pins 33 and 43 at the pcm and then with the ignition in the run position turn the crank by hand to observe that the signal pulses between 5 and 0.3V once per revolution of the crankshaft. If it is doing that I would not believe there would be a code 54. I assume that you erased the codes by disconnecting the battery briefly (except for the 12 code).
Did you check the egr valve? If that were ajar it would cause a no start due to mixture being too lean.
Roland
