QuestionQUESTION: Hi Roland. I have a 95 dodge spirit that died while driving
down the highway. One thing to note is that I installed a
relay for aftermarket door-lock actuators earlier in the
day. I also have had a remote start unit installed for a
while with no problems. I think I caused these problems by
attaching the +12 for the relay to one of the red ignition
wires near the switch. I intended to use the fuse already
installed for the starter, but I wasn't really thinking and
may have spliced on the wrong side. Anyway, here is what I
have done:
First, I noticed the fuel pump was not coming on, even for 1
second. After I checked all the wires at the ASD, I
determined I needed a new ecu because the blue/yellow was
showing weird values (from 6v-8v, sometimes 11.4, but not
enough to flip the relay). I put a used one on and now the
fuel pump kicks on for 1 second, also I get 12 at the
green/orange to the coil for 1 second. After the one second,
I lose power in both places. I noticed it will only kick on
for 3 or so times before it determines it's primed enough,
at which point I get no voltage at either location again.
I followed your other thread, and checked engine codes.
Before the new ecu, I got 11 and 42. After the ecu, I got
11. So, I removed the distributor cap and cleaned and
greased the rotor/distributor contact point. The code 11 has
disappeared. I have even tried to get it to reappear by
cranking for a few seconds, but I cannot get it to show. Now
there are no codes.
To make sure, I brought the coil to the auto parts store and
they tested it, and it checked out. The problem has to be
located around the relays if I don't get 12v to the coil
right?.
I am out of ideas. Must it be a fusible link? How do I know
which one it is? How do I check it?
ANSWER: Hi Eric,
I assume that you have the 2.2 or 2.5L 4 cyl engine. The 12v to the coil (and to the fuel pump) will only be there if the ASD relay points are closed. And that will only happen if the hall effect sensor in the distributor is putting out a pulsing signal that varied between 5V and 0.3V measured between the gray/black and the black/light blue when you turn the engine by hand via the crank pulley bolt and with the key in the run position. The 11 code suggested that recently that was not happening so even though you don't have that code now I would check for whether or not you have signal on the two wires that I listed as you turn it by hand. If you don't then you need to replace the hall effect sensor in the distributor, but also just in case check that the rotor is turning because the timing belt could have broken.
The other possibility is that the ASD isn't getting 12V on the red/white wire as that is the supply for the coil and fuel pump if the ASD relay points close. So verify that that source which should be present even with the ignition 'off'.
Let me know what you learn and we'll go from there. I don't know how the aftermarket remote works but is there a possibility it is preventing starting? The three times and 'your out' that you described is not normal, unless it might have something to do with an anti-theft circuit.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Yes it is the 2.5. I checked the wires coming from the hall
effect sensor, and I found that the gray/black is the one
that varies. It sits at 5v with the key on. I removed the
tire and hand cranked the engine while monitoring this wire.
It varied between 4v and 4.3v. I assume that means no good.
I checked the red/white going to the ASD, and it has 12v
(11.75) at all times. I also thought it was weird about the
three strike thing. What I found is that the relays and fuel
pump will only kick on for 1 second, and then only 3 times
after each time I reconnect the battery. After that, the ASD
never flips to give power to the coil, not even for 1
second. It is possible that the remote start could have
something to do with this, but I did not hook up any
security features or starter disable relay.
As of right now, I am assuming the three strike has to do
with the hall effect sensor. Maybe it thinks if it doesnt
read the signal for 3 key starts in a row that something
needs to be replaced anyway.
I have also verified that the rotor is spinning.
I will grab a few hall effects sensors from the junk yard
this afternoon. Are there any other possibilities?
AnswerI believe that you will find the hall effect sensor is the problem. If you are checking the voltage of a replacement sensor do measure between the two wires I listed as the black/light blue is the sensor ground, which is a 'cleaner' ground than chassis ground. It should clearly be a voltage drop to around 0.3v, four times per rotation of the rotor. Let us consider other possibilities if with a good sensor you still can't get a spark.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, thanks.
