Chrysler Repair: 98 sebring: no start except with starter fluid, screwdriver blade, penetrating lubricant


Question
ok,this is a 98 sebring conv. starting problem ,wont start without using starting fluid 60 % of the time .then the other 40 % of the time it will start.ive had it in over 10 differant shops and no one can fix it because it will start for them,theyve keep it for weeks and it starts then i get it back it works for a acuople of weeks then it just stops starting???? add starting fluid and it starts some times it takes starting fluid everytime for aweek or more.i think its possed

Answer
Hi Jerry,
Have they looked for fault codes that might be stored in the engine controller memory? Have they tested for the fuel pressure? The need for starter fluid suggests a too lean mixture of fuel/air.
A common cause for too lean a mixture to start is that the egr valve is stuck ajar rather than being fully closed when you try to start.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start, unless you get a specific fault code for something else.
Use the ignition key to try for a fault code readout:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch to see if the odometer reading changes to show some 4-digit numbers which would be fault codes. If not, then go to an Autozone parts store for a free readout or go to am independent shop where that would cost around $40. Ask for the code numbers, what they mean, what to do, and for how much. Let me know and we can compare notes.
Roland