Chrysler Repair: 96 Chrysler 2.5L: Code 43,, obd ii code reader, sebring coupe

Question
I have a 96 Sebring coupe LX with the 2.5 v6. I have had tons of problems lately and have in the last tank of gas, replaced the distributor, Fuel Filter, Full tune up, Alternator, Battery, Battery terminals and lots of other things that are not relevant to my question. It runs just fine some times, and then it will start running extremely rough and barely even idle, and then it will stall. It starts right back up again. I finally got it to throw a code and using the method to count the flashes of the check engine light, I have a code. I just need to know what the code means. The flash code is, 1-2-4-3-55. Of course the 55 is going to be on the end of all of them. Where do I find the list that tells me what that code means?
Thank you for your help.

Answer
Hi Adam,
The on again-off again symptom makes me wonder about whether you might have an intermittent mixture issue, possibly due to a faulty functioning of the egr valve. When it sticks slightly ajar it leans out the mixture so much that it won't idle and sometimes not start. The 12 code means that the battery was disconnected from the system sometime in the past 50-100 key starts, probably when the earlier work was done. The 43 means multiple cylinder misfire, which is non-specific and could be mixture or ignition related. You can try a readout with an OBD-II code reader for free at an Autozone parts store that would perhaps localize to a specific cylinder. But for now, take a look at the egr:
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
Roland