Chrysler Repair: Slight Misfire on 99 2.5L V-6, crankshaft position sensor, chrysler sebring

Question
I have a 99 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L V6. We recently replaced the fuel pump, timing belt, water pump, crankshaft position sensor and finally the distributor due to the car stalling (engine would turn over, but wouldn't start - we do not own a code reader). Now we finally got it all back together and we have a slight misfire. The misfire also happens at acceleration. Just a few minutes ago I reved it up to 2500 rpms and when it came back down it sounded like it wanted to die but didn't. Currently it idles at 800 rpm. Can you tell me what to check/replace next. I'm contemplating buying a code reader but don't know if they can read what's wrong with the car if the check engine light isn't on. Any suggestions for that as well... Thanks!

Answer
Hi Danni,
It sounds like a mixture issue and the first thing to do is get a fault code readout for free at an Autozone parts store, or for $40 at an independent shop. It may even be the case that using the ignition key will give you the codes, if any. "On-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds of less elapsed time. Then watch to see if the odometer reading changes to show any 4-digit fault codes in place of the mileage. If so, let me know what they are.
Then another thing that you can do is check the function of the egr valve which when sticky in its motion will cause a too lean mixture when slowing down or coming to an idle, or accelerating. Check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too cruddy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
Roland