QuestionQUESTION: I have a 1994 Chrysler New Yorker with a 3.5L engine. I was driving, tried accelerating, and it stalled. since then I haven't been able to start it. I did the "key dance" check, and the codes I got were 12 54 55, which I believe has to do with the cam shaft position sensor. Since then, I've replaced that sensor, and I can't seem to get no spark. Would you know the proper way to install the sensor, seeing I never got a paper spacer, let alone know how they look. Also, I've tried taking the sensor out, to look inside the hole that leads into the timing belt cavity, while attempting to start it. It doesn't seem to be moving or rotating at all when starting it. Is it suppose to move? The other belts outside, like for the fan, alternator, etc are rotating though. Can you please give me some possibilities asap as to what I can do to get my car going again Thanks.
ANSWER: Luckily, the 24v engine is a free wheeler. No damage done. Take off the top cam cover and try to pull up on the timing belt. If it moves, pull out the broken timing belt then remove the rest of the engine front and instal a new one. What you descrided is a typical belt failure.
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QUESTION: Okay, now what I've done so far, is I dismantled everything, replaced the timing belt with a new one, new gasket, seals etc. I positioned everything to a tee, tightened the tensioner, fired it up, to make sure it started. Sure enough, ran like a charm. So I shut it off, put everything back together to a tee. Then the car wouldn't start!!!! It was getting spark, sounded like a popping noise like it wanted to start, but no luck. Did a code check, was getting 12 41 55, which is alternator. So I assumed it was because of the battery almost being dead. I charge up my 1 month old optima battery, tried starting it again, this time pumping the gas, and it sounded like it wanted to start, like a popping combustion noise4, but no luck. So I pulled all the plugs, they were all burnt, spaced too far, and soaked with gas. So I bought all new plugs. Gonna get at her in the morning once again. Hopefully it goes once I replace the plugs. I did the key dance, prior to removing the plugs and all it reads is 12 55 now. In the past two weeks I've put a new coil pack, new starter, new timing belt, new cam and crank sensors, and my car is driving me crazy!!!! Please offer me some possibilities as to what I can do now after I put the new plugs in tomorrow. There are no faulty codes showing up. It was running, after the belt wast replaced. But somewhere between putting the covers n belts on and pumping the gas petal caused it to not start again. Please try respond soon thanks.
ANSWER: Check your vacuum lines, especially to the map sensor. also that the coolant temp sensor is tightly pushed in. You said that you do not see the cam pulley move when cranking, so it would be a good idea to remove the top belt cover to verify it is working. Before putting in the new plugs, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over a few times with the plugs removed to blow out any excess fuel. If all that fails to solve it, start checking the wires between the cam and crank sensors and the pcm. Code 41 is "field circuit power failure to alt from PCM"
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QUESTION: Thanks for all the expert advice. I'm getting there slowly. Anyway, today I dismantled the timing cover, rad fan, etc. to make sure we had the new belt lined up accurate. Everything checked out to a tee, so we replaced all the spark plugs with new ones, all spaced with the right specifications for this 3.5L Chrysler engine. We then turned it over and bam!!! It started with the flick of the key. So we put everything back together once again, and made sure it started again. Although I never got to pull the fuel pump fuse as I did all that before I checked my messages. Anyway, one thing I noticed is that although it seems to start easier and faster, thee's a little rattle when starting it, and then it goes away once the car is started. So I took it for a ride in the city and on the highway, figured my night mare was finally over. But when I left it idling outside for 10 minutes at the store I came out to see the engine light on. I shut it off, checked the "key dance" code check, and it read 12-51-51-55. I then started it up, and the engine light was off, so I continued driving. As I came to a stop at the lights it came on again. So I pulled over, Checked the codes, same result 12-51-51-55. Again, once I started it, no engine light. One thing I did notice, is the when your driving, and you let go of the gas petal completely, it's almost as if it slows down faster than how it usually was, which was to coast with ease. This time it slows down a bit more. I checked allpar's website to check the codes, and I believe it says it's too lean or too rich???? Could that be because I didn't do what you recommended, by pullig the fuel fuse to clear up the gas??? Is it too late to try that? Or is it an O2 sensor now? I am so frustrated, please help! Any kind of advice will help because I really need a dependable ride for me and my Family of 6.....I am tapped financially, as this car made me flat broke. Please try respond asap thank you kindly.
Answer"51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly has two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer round plastic unit with a cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. Recheck all the vacuum lines and make sure they are plugged into their proper locations.
