Chrysler Repair: problem starting: 97 2.5L, exhaust gas recirculation valve, penetrating lubricant

Question
I have a 97 chrysler sebring which is having problems with starting up....it
turns over but it will not fully start up and this happens1 out of 5 times ...
mostly a night.... They tell me  the fuel pump may be going and/or its in
need of a tune up....I just changed the timing belt and water pump not long
ago but it had nothing to do with this problem. I took it to the shop but while
it was there the problem didnt arise....they were busy and didnt it give it
much attention. The main hassle is it happens at random times therefore its
very un-reliable...

Answer
Hi Oscar,
I hope everything worked out with the starting problem. Please let me know by using the 'thank/rate' tab below.
While you are there, if I might ask a favor: where it asks about a 'nomination for expert of the month' I would appreciate your entering a 'yes'. I am in a close race for that honor so every vote counts!
Roland


History:






Hi Oscar,
Two things to do:
Get a readout of any fault codes that may be store in the engine controller which may shed some light. If you have an Autozone parts store nearbe they will do a readout for free, of an independent garage should do it for under $40. Tell me the 4-digit fault code numbers, what you were told they mean, and what they said was the cost to fix. Then we can compare that to the shop manual.
A common hard start cause that often will not set a fault code is the exhaust gas recirculation valve (egr). The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
So those are my best ideas for your situation, Oscar.
Roland
PS Use the 'thank/rate' tab to get back to me with any results/questions, without having to wait for me to be 'available' to take a question. There is a space for comments, to which I will reply. While you are there, if you notice the question about a 'nomination for expert of the month', I would appreciate a 'yes' in response. Thanks in advance.