QuestionQUESTION: Having starting problems again. Previously, the fuel pump was not getting power, turned out to be the ASD cutting out the fuel pump. Jumped the fuel pump relay once, car started, has been running fine since - for several months.
Car stalled while driving this time. Would not restart, but after a few hours, it started fine. Next day, would not start and now does not start at all.
Scan tool shows no codes. Power is present at the fuel pump connector behind the back seat. Spark is present at the #1 plug. ASD does not appear to be cutting out.
I'm still thinking it may be fuel, though - is there a good way for a DIYer to verify fuel getting to the engine?
What else should I be looking at?
Thanks.
ANSWER: Hi Dec,
Do you hear the fuel pump hum from inside the tank for about a second when you turn the key to the run position? If not, and there is voltage to it for about a second then I believe the pump has quit. The voltage is applied again when you try the starter and of course continues when the engine catches, but it is harder to hear the pump at that time. If it does hum for a second, then it is probably ok. There should be a fuel rail mounted port of some sort to attach a pressure gauge for verification.
Have you checked the egr valve to see if it might be sticking ajar which leans the mixture too much to allow catch and idle? Check by moving the valve stem via its circumferential slot with the tip of a screwdriver to make sure the spring-action forces it to a full stop. If not, lubricate the stem with WD-40 where it enters the valve body.
Let me know the year, model and engine. You can use the "thank/rate" tab to get back to me without having to wait for me to be 'available' to take a new question.
Roland
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QUESTION: I do hear the "hum". I'll try the egr valve as you suggested.
Sorry I forgot to provide the model info - it's a 1998 Cirrus with the 6 cylinder engine, around 180K miles
AnswerHi Dec,
Here are the details for the egr on that engine:
the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside.
I'm not hearing the "whirring", but when I disconnect the fuel line on the front rail, there is definitely fuel present. When I crank it with the #1 plug pulled, though, I don't smell gas in the cylinder and the plug is not wet when removed. The egr valve seems to move freely, and the shaft is shiny and clean. Moving it while cranking did not have any effect. Any other thoughts? It still seems like a sensor or electrical connection issue to me, but I'm having trouble tracking it down. Thanks
Hi Dec,
I think that if you aren't hearing the fuel pump run for 1 second or so when you turn the key to the run position, that it may be running but not at sufficient speed to raise the pressure to 48 psi. There is an accessory fuel pressure adapter that you insert between the fuel supply hose to the engine and the fuel rail which has a check port for a gauge. It is possible that the pressure regulator isn't doing its job. But absent the sound of the pump (and also verify that there is voltage at the pump for that same approximate 1 second time) I would believe the problem is the pump.
Roland
PS Thanks for the evaluation and nomination.
