QuestionQUESTION: my 1999 chrysler 300 stalled and would not start up again.It tried to start on starter fluid I have replaced the fuel pump and the spark plugs, I am getting power to the coils, it will only turn over but will not start. Can you make a suggestion as to what to do now?
ANSWER: Hi Gary,
It is probably a mixture issue, perhaps an egr valve that is stuck ajar, the map sensor, the tps sensor, the coolant temp sensor. I assume that you do hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the key to the "on" position; it should run for about 1 second.
The best approach would be to try and get a code readout. I am not sure if the ignition key will get it or not but try:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window in the speedo to see if the mileage reading changes to show any 4 digit numbers, which would be fault codes that will tell what is wrong as seen by the engine computer. If that won't work, then see if you can borrow a code reader to plug in to a jack under the dash next to the steering column. Other than getting the vehicle to an Autozone parts store where they will do a readout for free, or an independent shop that might charge $40 I can't think of another approach other than to buy a code reader. It really is smart to get a code readout rather than to throw parts at the problem in hopes that you will by chance get the right one. I can tell you how to approach the solution if we can get a fault code.
Roland
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QUESTION: i got only one code p1684
AnswerHi Gary,
That code is very common and unfortunately it just means that the battery power to the engine controller was disconnected sometime in the past 50 or so start cycles. If that is not the case, then there could be something wrong with the power supply wire to the controller but it is unlikely.
So, that leaves us with some choices. When you say power to the coil you probably mean low tension 12v. If so, it might be worth checking to see if you actually get spark by removing one coil and plug and then hold the threads of the plug on the engine block (handling only an insulation type surface of the assembly so you don't get shocked) while a helper run the starter motor and you can observe for spark.
Did you agree that you do hear the fuel pump for about a second (it will start again when you crank it but then it is hard to actually hear it)? If not, then we have to check that out. Do you smell gas on the plug when you take it out, after cranking, which would verify that gas is being delivered by the fuel pump and injectors (but leaves open the issue of the mixture). If you can measure the fuel pressure in the fuel rail that would confirm that you are getting the correct pressure (about 50 psi).
Check the resistance of the coolant temp sensor (next to the thermostat housing) to see if it reads 10,000-14,000 ohms as it should when the engine is cold. You could also remove the plug on the throttle position sensor and measure between the center pin and either outside pin while opening the throttle to make sure is varies smoothly in resistance. And while you are there, try cleaning the throat of the throttle body, both side of the butterfly plate, and the idle by-pass port on the side. And while you have the spark plug out you might check for compression, or alternatively check the timing belt to be sure it hasn't broken by removing one of the inspection covers at the front of the engine (that would be a necessity if you don't get spark, by the way).
Finally take a look at the egr valve. It is likely such as to have no visible valve stem in which case you would have to remove it to see if it is stuck ajar. But you would think that would have set a code already.
The MAP is hard to check if you can't get the engine to run, unless you have a diagnostic readout box that would tell you what is was reading in terms of atmospheric pressure.
Those are all the ideas I can think of now.
Good luck
Roland
