QuestionI have a 1989 Plymouth Reliant K that has 102,000 miles on it. About a month ago, when I tried to start my car the engine turned over but it wouldn’t catch. It started up just fine on the second try and then drove fine. Since that time, the problem has gotten worse and I have not driven it since it took me several times to start and then it stalled twice while I was driving the period of two blocks. In an attempt to solve the problem, I have had the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter and PCV Valve replaced but the problem still persists. When I put the key in, the clock turns on and I can turn on the headlights, so I don’t think that the problem is with the battery. I can get the engine to start still after a few tries (when it turns over without starting I turn off the engine and try again) but sometimes it shudders off after a few seconds.
When I checked the engine codes after I had those things replaced, this is what came up:
11, No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect)
OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth;
OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
12, Battery or computer recently disconnected
15, No speed/distance sensor signal
31, Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
37. Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
OR Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)
Any advice you can give would certainly be appreciated!
AnswerHi Jennifer,
Those codes are very helpful to giving you advice.
The major problem is due to code 11. You need to get an ignition sensor (hall effect type) for replacement of the one in your distributor. Those fail in a manner that you described and they are easy to replace. Just remove the distributor cap (2 screws), the rotor, and then lift off the round plate which contains the sensor, unplug it from the harness and replace it with a new one and reassemble.
If that doesn't solve the problem then we can try some other ideas but with that code 11 unresolved it won't run right. The sensor is around $40-50.
The 12 just means the battery power was disconnected in the past 50-100 key cycles or one of the battery clamps may be loose.
The 15 code would result in a poor or no speedometer/odometer performance and if that is true it could be that in a previous repair of the right side CV joint a mechanic damaged the sensor mounted on the transaxle extension housing by not removing it before removing the half-shaft. If there is no problem with the speedo then it is a false code. If it is and this service was performed recently the garage should provide a replacement distance sensor for free.
The 31 is about about the gasoline fume capture system and is relevant for pollution control but not for driveability.
The 37 code would result in the car not locking up the two halves of the torque converter when your speed rises above 40 mph (you should feel a slight reduction in rpm at that point, sort of like a half-gear shift). It helps with fuel economy but is not a major issue, either, as many cars don't have that feature (VW Jetta of that same age, for example).
So get the distributor sensor and let me know if replacing it doesn't help.
You can erase the stored fault codes by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, but you will still have the 12 code because you did that so don't worry about that reappearing. Any codes that reappear after that are relevant.
Roland
