QuestionRoland
This may change your reply but yes it is a coupe. also, my buddy is insisting that i attempt to change my fuel filter first.
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
Roland
My sebring would suddenly stall at times either when at a stop or while i was driving the rpms would suddenly die out for a split second then the engine would kick back in. This would be followed by the car stalling out completely shortly after without turning on the service engine light. Then i would try to start the engine and it would turn but not start. i had my car towed home and after it sat for a few days i tried to eliminate as many causes as possible. I added a fuel system cleaner to my tank and it ran fine for 2 days until the problem happened again but this time it turned on the service engine light. i used autozone scan tool and it showed P0340(Camshaft position sensor) which as you know requires a complete distributor replacement. After replacing the distributor the car started fine. i let it warm up to drive the core back to autozone when the same thing happened again as i pulled in the lot turning on the service engine light. I once again used the scan tool and it showed the same code after i installed a new distributor. Where shall i go from here? Thank you
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Hi Kurt,
First, are you sure that the old codes were erased and that the 0340 is current? That can be confusing. Either Autozone should cancel the code and then get it to show the fault again, or you can disconnect the battery for 5 minutes (which will cause a temporary 1684 code) and then see if you still get the 0340 when you crank it, just to verify it is a fresh code.
I will assume that you have the Sebring convert, not the coupe or sedan which have slightly different wiring assignments and that of course you have the 2.5L engine.
The troubleshoot for this code is to verify that the power supply for the sensor is present and to check that the wiring for the sensor signal and grounds are continuously connected to the powertrain controller and that they are not erroneously grounded. If all that checks out, then the only other possibilities are that the sensor is bad (but if this is a new distributor that should not be the case, though it would be worth asking Autozone to let you try another one) or that the powertrain controller is bad.
Here is how to check the power supply and the wiring harness between the 6-pin plug at the distributor and the powertrain controller. There are 2 40-pin plugs at the the controller, both black, one is numbered 1-40 and the other is 41-80.
The 0340 troubleshooting says:
disconnect the 6-pin plug at the distributor. Then measure that there is continuity from pin 1 (black/light blue wire) to pin 43 at the powertrain controller plug (same color wire). Reconnect the plug to the powertrain controller,
turn the ignition 'on' and verify that there is at least 7V on the orange wire (pin 2). If not, check continuity after
turning off the ignition and verify the following connections:
pin 2 to pin 44, and that the wire is not grounded
pin 6 of the 6-pin plug to pin 4 at the powertrain controller plug and also verify that the wire is not grounded.
pin 3 tan/yellow to pin 33 and that it isn't grounded.
Then reconnect the controller plugs and make sure that pin 5 is grounded.
When doing the voltage check and all the continuity and grounding checks, try to flex the harness between the plug at the distributor and plugs at the powertrain controller to reveal any breaks in the wires that might cause an intermittent failure.
If everything checks out, and another distributor doesn't fix it, then about the only thing to do is to put it all back together, take two fine pins and probe the tan/yellow wire and black/light blue wires, then put a voltmeter between the pins and measure for whether you get a 5v reading which changes to a 0v reading when you have the igntion "on" and you turn the engine over by hand using a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. That voltage oscillation should occur three times for each full rotation of the crankshaft.
If everything checks out, then the powertrain controller is recommended for replacement.
That is long (and not so short) of it.
Let me know if you find something that isn't meeting the test.
Roland
AnswerKurt,
Please reread my message about verifying that 0340 is the current code. If it is then all I can suggest is that you follow the wiring checks that I listed in the third paragraph with the following changes that I have made to reflect that you have a coupe and not a convertible:....
"Then measure that there is continuity from pin 6 (black/dark green wire) to pin 43 at the powertrain controller plug (same color wire). Reconnect the plug to the powertrain controller,
turn the ignition 'on' and verify that there is at least 7V on the yellow (pin 5). If not, check continuity after
turning off the ignition and verify the following connections:
pin 5 to pin 44, and that the wire is not grounded
pin 1 of the 6-pin plug to pin 4 at the powertrain controller plug and also verify that the wire is not grounded.
pin 4 brown to pin 33, and that it isn't grounded.
Then reconnect the controller plugs and make sure that pin 2 is grounded."
To check for grounding or voltage when the plugs are connected to their sockets just take a fine straight pin and probe thorough the insulation of the wire to contact the internal conductor.
I see no harm in changing the filter, particularly if the 0340 is not a current code. But other than that, if the 0340 is still current I have no other suggestions than what I have revised and listed above. Please try to go over the tests and note the results. Then if you need further suggestions write back with the details and I'll do my best to determine what they mean and what to do. If you or your friend don't have the volt-ohm meter or the inclination to do these tests you can pass along this info to an auto electric mechanic.
Roland
