Chrysler Repair: 1996 Chrysler Sebring, pulley bolt, crank pulley

Question
My car stalls after running around 20 min. Then I must wait till cools down to start again. I have read 3 different articles wrote to you where others were having the same problem. I did the check with the ignition, on,off,on,off, on and the first time my codes were 12, 46, 32, 42, 43, @ 55. I then replaced my battery terminals and did it again and I got 12 @ 55. I let car run till it stopped again. Then checked the codes and it was the same 12 @ 55. I thought it would be an 11 code so what might it be. I just recently change the distributor (brand new one and tune up. Please help me.

Answer
Hi Ross,
It may be a while before the controller sets a relevant code so keep looking for that. I agree that the crank sensor could be the culprit. You could bring along a voltmeter and wrench to turn the crank pulley bolt and when it shuts down check whether of not you are getting a signal out of that sensor (Tan/yellow and black/light blue wires) using very fine pins to probe the central conducting wires. The voltage should oscillate between 5 and 0.3 volts three times per revolution of the crank.
Other than that, the historic codes suggest and egr valve that might be sticking ajar (which will cause a stall)*, or an autoshutdown relay that is flaky, or the primary ignition coil circuit (possibly the harness or the coil which you already replaced), and unrelated to stall that the generator voltage was too high (grounded field coil or wire thereto). So watch for new codes and check the egr.
Roland
*Check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too cruddy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
Because you mentionned a cool down required to resume function you might also want to chect the resistance of the coolant temp sensor. When the engine is fully warmed up it should read 600-800 ohms. Anything much higher than that could cause a too rich mixture which can cause a stall. It is located next to coolant filler cap.
Please let me know what it turns out to be the cause.