Chrysler Repair: Sebring:Various electrical problems, timing belt replacement, jump the car

Question
I have a 97 sebring that is experiencing electronic proglems. The RPM gage doesn't work, the fuel light comes on regardless of the level of fuel, the car over heats, the interior lights blink on and off. We had an issue where we'd thought the cars alarm was set off and when we'd discoverd the car only the parking lights were on. The car wouldn't start. Once we'd gotten a jump the car would crank but die then the interior lights started flashing, a few minutes later the horn/alarm went off the headlights flashed all while the car was off.  The repair shop said the diagnostic was the car was in alarm mode. However the next day the car was overheating with the interior lights blinking and the fule light coming on. HOwever the temperature light does not come on.  Can you tell me what I should have investigated? I don't want to chase multiple problems to find out it's was a sensor or relay. Any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated

Answer
HI Sherri,
Thanks for the kind evaluation and nomination. On the overheating issue, it would be good to look into this one so you don't get into more trouble. Is there fluid in the overflow bottle to the line indicated on the side? If not, then add some coolant to reach that level. It may be that the thermostat is not opening at a low enough temperature. You spoke of it not wanting to pump...how do you reach that conclusion? Were that the case it would suggest the need to replace the water pump. But if you have the 2.5L V6 that is not an inexpensive job because you also have to remove the timing belt to reach it. That is why most people do the water pump prophylactically when it comes time to replace the timing belt either based on mileage or actual inspection of the belt. If you are nearing 100K miles on the engine and the timing belt hasn't been changed it may be a good time to do that and the water pump at the same time because it is very easy once you get to the timing belt replacement step. Otherwise, I would look down the water filler cap when the cooling system is still cool but the engine is running to make sure the water appears to be moving well. It is possible for the water impeller to come loose on the shaft and that would explain a 'not wanting to pump' sort of impression. But don't leap to that conclusion.
Roland



Hi Sherri,
Those problems are for the most part unrelated. But two of them probably have a single cause: the interior flashing lights and the spontaneous going into alarmed mode. I think what is the problem is that one of the door latches is not adjusted to secure the door tightly enough so that a door ajar switch at that door is being activated which causes the lights inside to illuminate, and if the alarm system was armed it would also cause the alarm to go off. So try pulling on the doors, or pushing against the door from inside, one at a time to see which one will cause the interior lights to come 'on', even though you haven't unlatched the door. Then notice that the latch on the door frame has screws which when loosened will allow you to move the latch more inboard so that the door will be more securely latched. That should prevent false alarms and flashing interior lights.

The rpm could be the tachometer itself is broken, or there is a module which is part of the circuit board attached to the rpm unit called the tachometer drive module. That would be worth trying to replace as it is less expensive than the gauge unit in its entirety. Of course it could also be the wiring harness or even the engine controller itself that is the cause. So it would be desireable to have a knowledgeable tech check to see which of these possibilities will fix it.

On the overheating, does you car have a temperature gauge? If so then it wouldn't have a light to warn you. If you don't have a gauge then the temp unit which is supposed to close when the water hits a specific value is probably out of specfication. There may be a warning light for low fluid level in the system rather than for the temp being off scale. You would need to tell me more about: how you know it was overheating (steaming, gauge reading, or ?). In any case don't rely on the warning light until this is fixed.

The fuel level gauge could be due to a faulty level sensor unit in the fuel tank, or a problem with the wiring harness. Again, a competent tech should be able to figure that on out.
Sorry to hear you are having all these problems; it appears that you need to spend a little time and money to resolve these.  If you have a volt/ohmmeter and want to try some of these youself, let me know.
Roland
P.S. I notice that the last three areas of problem involve the instrument cluster. It is the case that all the data for the operation of the faulty readouts may be handled by a single set of wires called the data bus. It may be that there is a problem with the data bus handling inside the cluster so that all might resume function by repairing that problem or replacing the cluster. That is not an inexpensive part, but if the rpm, temperature light?, and fuel warning light were all faulty for that reason then the labor time to troubleshoot each of those would be avoided. It is a possibility but not a certainty which might be tried if you didn't have to pay for cluster just to test it.