QuestionRoland,
Yes, Cleveland has given me brain freeze, and it is a V6, though I dream of old V8's. Bad day already as I was rear-ended in my 84 Parisienne (V8) and they smashed in the whole rear end! But back to the Chrysler. I did the engine check and came up with 12, 55. Neither the computer nor the battery has been disconnected anytime recently, however. My son replaced the oxygen sensor (I think) this summer because it was coming up on the computer check, and he thought that might be the fix. But alas, it didn't.
We have discussed temp sensors recently, but since neither of us really knows diddly, we weren't sure what it would do and how it would affect running in cold weather. And an update, as of yesterday, it didn't need to warm up much before stall (a couple of minutes). This is how it progressed before when it wouldn't even consider running in cold. Hence, I drove my daughter to school and got hit on the way.
Thank you much for your help. I'm finding that very few have much understanding of the whole system today.
Bob
I was confused before by the temporary fix after computer replacement, but since it is showing disconnect now, could it be simply a bad connection or wire that just happened to sit better after reinstall. Also note that in Cleveland, there is HEAVY salt usage for the roads (corrosion factor).
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Followup To
Question -
I have an 94 Chrysler Town & Country with a 3.8 V8. When the outside temperature drops to 20 or less, the van does a smooth stall (engine just cuts out), but only after warming up for about 20 minutes. As the problem progresses, less warm-up time is needed and restart is not assured. The electronic speed gauge flutuates between actual and zero for the second or three before stall, and sometimes is accompanied by a light transmission jerking. Replacement of the computer 3 yrs ago was temporary fix, but only for 1 winter. Any clue as to the actual problem?
Answer -
Hi Bob,
The most likely reason is one of the temperature sensors in the engine control system is probably not reading accurately, resulting in an inappropriate fuel/air mixture.
But there could be something else, so let's begin by taking advantage of the self-diagnostic capability of the engine controller (computer). It may have recorded an abnormal reading and stored that as a code number in its memory. Begin a readout as follows: Take your ignition key and turn the ignition switch "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on". Do this switching quickly so that no more than 5 seconds elapses. Then watch the 'check engine' light to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and make a note of them in the order that they come. The last two flash groups will be 5 in each. Repeat the readout until you have the numbers accurately (the same result, two times in a row). Then pair the numbers two at a time in the order they came, to form two-digit numbers, for example the last number will be 55 which is the code for "end of readout". Then write back and tell me the other numbers that came out and I'll see if any of them are related to your problem.
Just for carification, you mean a 3.8 V-6 engine in your van, not a V-8, correct?
Roland
AnswerHi Bob,
It is good that you checked the codes and found nothing remarkable. I like the idea of checking the contact connections between the pins and sockets on the 60 way engine controller plug. That history may be your best clue to today's problem. I checked the manual on the 3.8L as used in '92 which shouldn't have changed by '94 and I only find one temp sensor to be involved and that is the coolant temp sensor located on the top of the engine directly adjacent to where the large cooling system manifold (thermostat housing I suspect) and its radiator hose are located. The wires on the sensor are black/light blue and tan/black. The black/light blue wire goes to pin 4 on the 60-way, and the tan/black goes to pin 2. While you are checking the patency of those wires at the 60-way, you could also check for bent pins or corrosion everywhere on that connector. As for the temp sensor itself, it is supposed to be 7,000 to 13,000 ohms at 70F, and then drop to 700 to 1,000 ohms at 200F (the normal warmed engine operating temp). So I would suggest verifying that the resistance really does drop to that level as the engine gets warm and reaches operating temp. If it didn't, then the controller would not lean out the mixture as appropriate and thus provoke a stall. The other system that might be involved in your stall is the egr valve. Were that to be faulty in not closing fully at idle then that would also stall the engine. It could well be partially clogged and unable to close down completely. So looking into the interior of that valve and make sure it moves freely would be warranted.
Let me know what it is when you solve this, which I am sure between you and your son that will happen.
Sorry to learn of your Parisienne being rearended. Is that a Chrysler model or if not who? I remember the name but can't picture it.
Roland
