Chrysler Repair: check engine light, phillips head screwdriver, metal shaft

Question
i have a 1995 intrepid with a 3.3 liter engine and i wrote you earlier today about the idle fluctuating and it feeling like it kicks out of gear. you said to see how many times the check engine light flashes after turning the key on off on off on then write you back with the results. i did that and the light flashed five times then paused for about 1 second or so, then flashed five more times and then stopped flashing.

thank you for your help
SCOTT MCLEAN

Answer
Hi Scott,
The 5 flash-5 flash behavior, e.g. 55 code, means that the code readout is complete, and because there were no other groups of flashes that the engine controller has seen nothing amiss. Because of that response we are left with thinking of things that aren't monitored by the engine controller, or if they are not in such a way as to recognize all possibilities.
There are about 14 tests that are possible which involve electronic controls and electrical and fuel components that can't be monitored. I assume that you don't have a lot of test equipment and tools that are specialized for tune-up purposes.
Secondary spark quality: you can take a phillips head screwdriver with a plastic handle for this test. Remove a spark plug rubber cap (pull on the body of the cap, not the wire) and insert the screwdriver all the way so as to touch the wire clip inside which carries the electrical spark voltage. Then have a friend available to operate the ignition switch. While holding the plastic handle of the screwdriver in one hand and the rubber cap in the other so as to maintain the internal electrical contact, position the assembly so that the metal shaft of the screwdriver is ¼” away from a metal surface on the engine such as the edge of the cylinder head. Then have the friend crank the engine for a few seconds ( or until the engine starts) but no more than 5 seconds and while the cranking is going on look to see a blue spark jump across the gap between the screwdriver shaft and the engine. Verify that the spark is of constant intensity throughout the cranking period. (It should pulse once for every two revolutions of the engine (i.e. about  3 times a second). If that test looks good, then try the cranking again, only this time as the cranking is going on gradually move the shaft away to maybe a distance of ½”,  watching instead at the other end of the spark cap wire where it comes from the coil to see if you see any arcing around the “tower”. If  there is, then the coil is bad, if not then the coil is o.k.
The next item to check in the positive crankcase ventilation valve and its associated hoses. This item is a small plastic device with a hose coming out of either end of which one is attached to one of the valve covers and the other to the intake manifold. If you remove the hose that attaches it to the valve cover at the point where it attaches to the valve while the engine is idling: you should hear a hissing sound and feel a strong vacuum when you put your finger over the valve inlet which you have “exposed”. If not then the valve is dirty or clogged or a hose is cracked or not connected properly. If you remove the other hose from the valve to free it entirely, then shake it, you should hear a rattle sound. If one or the other of these tests fails and it isn't a hose issue, then buy a new PCV valve (under $5).
Have you changed the fuel filter recently (Say in the last 50,000 miles)? It is located near the outlet of  the fuel tank, usually in front of the tank, under the car, on the passenger side. Look for fuel lines and follow them to find the filter.
Next do a visual inspection of all the vacuum lines that are shown on the under the hood EPA sticker. Look for any disconnected or cracked hoses.
There are a number of other tests that might be done: fuel pressure, vacuum pressure, engine compression, and measurement of the electrical output of various sensors that require some test instruments.
I don't know how much of these you are prepared to do, so let me know. If luck is with us you might find your solution in one of the tests I've listed above.
I don't believe there is any reason to suspect the transmission unless the problem appeared immediately after the transmission was worked on, which would make me suspicious that they disconnected something and didn't reconnect it properly.
Roland