Chrysler Repair: Electrical issue with 95 Sebring Coupe, personal mechanic, cable clamps


Question
Hi, I have a '95 Sebring Coupe, 2.5L V6.  This is a Mitsubishi engine, so I'm not sure if you can help, but since this is electrical, it may not matter.
I've had intermittent problems with this car, which have escalated in recent weeks.
I have flickering dash lights and headlights, coupled with occasional power reset of the stereo when depressing the brake pedal while driving.  The stereo comes back on.  When the problem is "in action," when I turn off the car, I will hear feedback in the speakers, and the car will not immediately restart.  To restart, I will leave the ignition turned to the "on" position, and after a few minutes (and sometimes with the help of the dome light being turned on or opening the hood and jiggling the cable between the battery and the fuse box) the dash indicators will come back and I can crank the ignition to start.  I used to have an occasional issue with the car temporarily "stalling" while driving, with the tacometer dropping to zero and the transmission lurching, but that has subsided.
I took the car in for diagnostics at the dealership and they found nothing.  I had a personal mechanic replace the ignition switch (from research and recommendations).  I do suspect the wiring from the battery to the fuse box, but if it indicates other issues, I'd love to hear your opinion.


Answer
Hi Tom,
An intermittant is always a hard fix. But I think there is clearly a loose connection in the wires that are close to the battery. But keep in mind that you have to have a closed path from the + pole out and from the car systems back to the - pole. So I would begin with the battery cable clamps and the posts of the battery. Make sure the cable clamps and posts are shiney (use a post cleaner tool, coat the surfaces with battery compound). Always begin and end the job at the - post, for safety against a short to ground.
While the battery is disconnected I would then check the two ground wire connections on the negative clamp's wire: there is a wire clamp that is attached with a nut to the body with a nut that is located behind (and possibly slightly below the battery tray). Remove the nut and clean the clamp and the body surface to which it is bolted, then reattach firmly. Similarly follow that ground wire to the rear of the engine where again there is an eyelet that is bolted to the engine; remove clean and tighten.
On the positive post's clamp and wire (and while the battery is still disconnected): Follow the large black wire, check the contacts inside the electrical disconnect (torpedo shaped, black color plastic) in the wire that goes to the fuse box (this is right behind the battery). Then trace the heavy black wire to where it enters the fuel box and verify that it is firmly attached at the box (I suspect it may go into the box where it is bolted to the central bus bar (I don't have such a box in my '89 so I can't be sure of that)).
Then reconnect the battery and I think you will have solved the problem.
Roland