QuestionGreetings Dennis, to be as brief as possible. I purchased a 1988 Ford Escort LX 4 weeks ago, everything ran fine, I bought it from a lady whose parents had taken it away from her for her safety, One day about a week ago I pulled into a fast food chain and ordered a meal. The vehicle was a little low on gas. As I went to leave it started and I backed up about 10 ft, and it diedand wouldn't re=start.
I first checked to see if there was spark from the coil, there was none, but fuel was working. I figured it was a bad coil and so happendly accross the street to a parts store and bought a coil, upon installation, still no spark. I then took the Ignition control modular over and after checking it it failed, A worker from the parts store came over with me with a tool and pliers as the module was in so tight, he had to remove the distributor to remove the modulator. after installing the modular it started right up, but was very rough and would barely idle in D and R, making a rattle/ knocking noise in reverse.And was rough in Idle. After trying to manually time the distributor to the best running condition i left and found upon the highway that with the pedal floored i was doing maybe 45mph. I had a problem with a jury rigged linkage(throttle)and after improving it it ran much more smooth in drive, but was still rumbling in R and D. I called the person who helped me amd he said that possibly one of the cogs slipped and to remove the timing belt and move it backward counterclockeise 1 cog. This made it even worse. As I attempted to replace the belt, it broke. the chiltons manual says that the tension roller has 2 screws that hold it tight. This has none. The roller has what appears to be a factory (carriage looking ) round plug in the middle of the roller assembly, I spent 28 straight hours working to find the roller bolt adjustments., and work with the timing belt My other problem is that I have been told that to install a new belt the engine needs to be lowered, but some have said it is not neccesary to do so, i have looked at the right front for the engine motor mount, but what I thought was it did nothing after removing the bolts.I have heard of half width 3/4 sockets but haven't decided if that is the right way to go.
also the chiltons manual has said that the pointer in the crankshaft should point to the mark on the cylynder head, guess what, no mark.
I have not moved the camshaft, but with the crankshaft being in thee 9:00 o'clock position.
Q are both the crankshaft and camshaft pointers supposed to be at 12:00? I see no nark on the camshaft, but havent had a chance to see the crankshaft or supposedly key. once these were both in the 12:00 position the rotor was off the #1 pole by several degrees.
Q could the distrubitor be in wrong? all I know is that this car ran fine before replacing the ignition control module, and afterward ran horribly.
Q What would be your recommendation for removing the Harmonic balancer, dropping the motor right mount or is there such a thing as a half 3/4 socket for removals.
Q have you ever heard of an 88 escort LX having a non movable tensioner? if not could you semd a diagram of the tenxioner bolts locations and the RF motor mountlocation and what bolts needing to be removed.
Q and what would be the proper way of inserting a distributor?
I'm sorry for all the questions, but i want to do it right and the sinplest way. Thank you sir.
Sincerely.
Michael Jacobs
michaeljacobs4444@yahoo.com
AnswerSounds like you have a mess there Micheal. I suggest you check your local library for auto manuals that have the instructions and directions you need. I don't have what you are asking for. As far as your questions, if you can find a manual that will be easier for you as most have diagrams. Personally I have never seen an Escort without some means of applying tension to the belt. It's a good idea to do a water pump while you have it apart. Yes, you do have to remove the engine mount to do this operation.
