QuestionQUESTION: ok there are two set of connectors (one for each coil) each connector has two wires (one white one yellow i believe) One of the connectors has 8.4v and the has 0v. I can not tell you specifically what wires have power with out cutting the connectors off. I hope that tells you more.
ANSWER: I think there's something I'm not quite understanding, Nathan. You should be able to unplug the connector and simply probe each terminal and then make a note of the color of wire going to that terminal in the connector.
Is the issue that you cannot see which color wire goes to which position? If so, the connector often has a small cover over it designed to prevent the wires from continually flexing right at their entry point in the connector, resulting in a break at that point. If such a cover is in place, it can typically be removed by unlatching the clips that hold it together. I don't want you to disassemble the connector (or even take the connector itself apart) as this may result in damage to the connector. But if there's a cover on the connector, this can typically be removed and reinstalled when testing is done.
If I'm entirely off base here, can you explain why you'd need to cut off the connector to tell which wire has which voltage?
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QUESTION: Ok so after you asked what wires had voltage. So I went back and tested each wire individually instead of each connector. So what I noticed was that the ¼ coil connector has a white and a green wire. The white one has anywhere from 8v to 11v rapidly changing while cranking and green about 0.07v. The 2/3 coil has a white wire and a yellow wire. The white again has from 8v to 11v and the yellow is at about 0.07v. so looking at that I don’t know anything except for the coils, because there is nothing else in between the plugs and the connectors. So how likely would it be that both coils went bad at the same time. Can the car run with only one coil. And I didn’t think to mention it before but when I hook my obd II up to it the obd will not connect to the car. I was thinking it is because I replaced the battery and the car has not been started since therefore there is not info on the computer to connect to.
ANSWER: The voltage should not be varying that low in the white wires, nor should it be as low as 8V. If the engine is cranking, this most likely indicates a battery that isn't fully charged or will not accept a full charge. If the engine isn't cranking, you should go to the engine relay output (white wire at the relay) and see if you have the same fluctuating voltage being output from the relay.
It's not very likely that both coils have failed at the same time. It's more likely that a necessary ingredient for the coils to fire is missing. The engine will indeed start an run (albeit very poorly) on just one coil.
Your OBD tester (code reader or scan tool) should connect to the computer and display whatever codes are present or indicate there are no trouble codes. The fact that it will not communicate is evidence that there may be an issue with the ECM not turning on. At this point, I don't recall whether we discussed whether the check engine lamp came on when the ignition is turned to the on position? Does it?
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QUESTION: yes the check engine light comes on and I have check all the fuses that you said could be causing the problem. The battery is brand new and I have tried jumping thinking that it may not have a full charge but still no luck. The car has not run that good that good since I got so I may try to replace the coils while I wait for a response because the worst that can happen is I have new coils. I do not know what else to test on the ecm besides the fuses so if there are things to test on it pleas let me know, in fact I don't really know much of anything about the ecm or what replacing it in tales.
AnswerIf you're to the point of replacing the coils to see what happens, your money is probably better spent on professional diagnostics. I say for two reasons. First, it's nearly impossible for two coils to fail at the same time, so they're not likely the cause. Second, guessing at parts can easily become expensive.
I think you're more likely to find the issue if you look at the necessary ingredients for the ECM to fire the coils rather than at the coils themselves.
Since you say you have a fluctuating 8-11 Volts at the white wires to these coils:
What is the voltage at the battery under the same circumstances you're measuring the voltage at the coils?
What is the voltage at the white wires if you attach jumper cables from another vehicle (or battery) to this battery?
