QuestionI had a car come into my shop as a crank no- no start. It has a new primary and secondary timing belt(and the timing is dead on), both coils are good. I checked the resistance of the wiring to/from the coils, and the ignition fail sensor. It has good compression in all cylinders.
It also has a new crank and cam sensor. Just no power going to the number one coil(over cylinder number 4). It had codes for misfire on cylinders 2 and 4, along with a cam sensor code. But its actualy misfiring on 1 and 4(the 2 cylinders run by the in-op coil.)
I'm running out of ideas. I've been through the factory diag. chart, and down to replacing the ignition fail and ecm with known good units, but I don't have any and dont want to buy them unless I have to.
Any ideas?
AnswerBoth coils should have power to them in the pink/black wire anytime the ignition is on. If you indeed are getting power to one coil in this wire but not in the other, there's a break in the wire in the subharness that goes to the ignition coils.
If on the other hand, you're indicating that the 2-3 coil is simply not firing, then the first steps are to recheck the crank sensor plate and the camshaft dowel to verify they're properly in place and in good condition. If the computer is confused into thinking the engine is at TDC when it isn't there, the 2-3 coil may never fire.
You might also check each injector connector with a noid lamp to see whether the ECM is firing each injector.
If I might ask:
1. What was wrong that caused the car to not start?
2. How did you determine both coils were good?
3. Is it possible the 2-3 coil is firing, but that the wire is arcing, preventing the spark from reaching the plug?
