QuestionHello John,
I have a 1997 Discovery SD, 101600miles- there are a few things that I would like to try to fix myself...
1. Windows on left side not working. driver window stopped first, then rear a couple weeks later. I have driver door panel off- not really sure where to go from here... What should I check?
2. ABS brake/check engine lights are on, brought it to dealership- they said nothing was wrong w/brakes/engine, but lights are still on... again what should I check? Do you think it is the relays that causes the false signal?
3. A really stupid question now... I don't have the original factory manual- what oil do you reccomend? One site suggested Mobile1 5W30. Also, is there much difference between higher priced filters?
4. Car has not been used regularly for nearly a year- the connection on the battery is starting to corrode. Do I need to replace the battery, or can I disconnect & brush off corrosion?
Thank you for answering all my stupid questions,
Jessica
AnswerHi Jessica,
don't worry about the questions you ask - just the ones you don't!
I once spent several emails trying to help someone with a stalled engine and it just seemed like it we were going nowhere. After several suggestions in fixing his engine, I finally asked what model and engine he had. It was an old Toyota Land Cruiser - "It's the same as your Land Rover" was his reply. uh...no.
To address your four questions:
Window problems with LR's are very common. You first have to determine if your switch is working. You could try swapping the console switch that you are having problems with, to a window that is fully functional. If the switch works with the functional window, you know it's not in the switch.
IF it's not the switch it can be either the motor, the wiring to the motor or the window ECU electronic control unit for the windows. As you can see with the door panel off, there is not very much room to work with.
To test the window motor, it would be ideal to remove it and bench test it with some spare wires and a 12 volt battery. The window ECU is a different matter and is best left to an experienced LR electronic specialist.
The ABS problem you mention is also another common problem with LR's. Sometimes it's the wheel sensors that need to be replaced, other times it's the ABS modulator. You could be in need of brake service and it's possible your wheel swivel hub could also be causing the problem.
As for the oil, it depends on where you live, the type of driving you do and what is available. If you live in the US south - 10w30 is just find. Some of the high mileage products offered by Mobile and Quaker state are quite good.
If you live in the US North or Canada, 10w30 is good for the spring/summer/fall but you may want to change to 5w30 for those frigid winter months. The thinner oils make it easier for the starter to turn your engine over on very cold mornings.
As for oil filters - Fram has always been my preference. If you change your oil on a regular basis, any name brand oil filter should do. Fram, Purolator, AC-Delco, Quaker State are all filters I've used and they don't have to be the ultra-pure-dura-guard-blah-de-blah version that are higher priced. I change my oil 3 times a year and those filters get changed too. I have well over 242,000 miles on my original engine, if that helps you with your decision.
For corrosion on the battery cable, remove the battery and then carefully brush off the deposits into an aluminum pie plate. Dispose accordingly. Make sure both the battery terminals and the connectors are free of any deposits. Once clean, you could use petroleum jelly on the battery terminal posts. I've heard of some people pouring coke over the wires to clean them. It'll work BUT it's very corrosive.
If you need more advise you can email me and I'll pass you more helpful data.
Best of luck,
JohnMc
jmcinnis64@hotmail.com
