QuestionI have recently replaced my abs pump about 2 months ago. Since then I had noticed some pulling to the right when I applied the brakes and a clicking sound which turned out to be a bad caliper....now my mechanic was trying to bleed the brakes and is saying that he is not getting any assist on the rear brakes and he has been constaly trying to bleed them. He is not a LR mechanic. Could there be something he is missing or does it sound like a ABS booster problem? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
AnswerYou really need a Land Rover specialist to work on these cars. They have so many differences from regular cars, and inexperienced but well meaning mechanics often waste time (at your expense) or do damage (worse)
Onlt use Castrol LMA brake fluids. Generic brake fluid may not be compatible with your truck and may cause problems.
Here are LR's instructions to bleed your brakes. You must follw them exactly. You may have to pay to log on to their web site, www.landrovertechinfo.com if your mechanic needs pictures, too:
1. Switch off ignition and depressurise system. Ensure ignition remains OFF until instruction 7.
2. Fill fluid reservoir with specified fluid to ’MAX’ level. NOTE: Time consumed in filling booster may be reduced by fitting a rubber bellows unit to filler neck, using hand pressure to pressurise the reservoir. A spare bellows unit from booster push rod is suitable for this purpose. Ensure bellows unit is perfectly clean to avoid foreign matter entering system. Raising rear of vehicle will assist fill procedure.
3. Depress brake pedal slowly and progressively five times, using full pedal stroke. Release pedal for five to ten seconds, air bubbles will rise into reservoir.
4. Repeat instruction 3. until some resistance is felt. If no resistance is felt check clevis pin is connected to correct (UPPER) hole in brake pedal
5. Bleed four front caliper lower (hydrostatic) bleed screws in the conventional manner. In the order: outer bleed screw driver’s side, opposite caliper outer bleed screw, inner bleed screw, inner bleed screw driver’s side. Depress brake pedal slowly and progressively, locking bleed screw at bottom of each stroke.
6. Bleed hydraulic pump - open bleed screw on pump and allow fluid to flow until clear of air bubbles. Do not use bleed bottle, use a clean absorbant cloth to prevent fluid spillage.
7. Bleed accumulator - open bleed screw. If vehicle has ETC, accumulator bleed screw is on top of ETC valve block. Switch on ignition, run pump for 3-4 secs, switch off and repeat procedure until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Switch off ignition. Close bleed screw.
8. Bleed two hydraulic booster bleed screws. Open one bleed screw, depress brake pedal, switch on ignition, run pump until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Close booster bleed screw, switch off ignition, release pedal. Repeat for other bleed screw.
9. Bleed power circuit at four calipers in turn. Depress pedal, open bleed screw, (upper bleed screw on front calipers). Switch on ignition, run pump for 3-4 secs, switch off and repeat procedure until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Switch off ignition, close caliper bleed screw, release pedal.
10. Bleed master cylinder - switch ignition on. System pressure will increase until pump cuts out. If pump does not cut out after running for 45 secs, check system for leaks.
11. Bleed hydrostatic circuit calipers - open one front lower caliper bleed screw. Actuate brake pedal several times, using only lower two thirds of pedal travel, until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Stop actuation if fluid warning light comes on and allow pressure to build up.
12. Close caliper bleed screw before releasing pedal, repeat for remaining three hydrostatic bleed screws.
13. Check/top up reservoir fluid level. See Fluid Level Check / Top Up
14. Dry all connections, fully pressurise system, check for leaks. If two full brake applications switch on pump, from fully charged, rebleed system.
