QuestionHow do I run a test on the cable? I'm going to try flushing it next, if not, I guess it's replacement time.
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It does have a throttle cable, which was loose. I went ahead and messed around with it, tighten it and loosened to see if it made a difference, but it didn't.
I also let it idle and checked the transmission fluid. I checked it before shifting on P and it read full. Next, I did R and then back to P and read full. Then N,D,2, and L, and everytime it read full both sections on the dipstick (cold and hot) were red in fluid after each movement. I wipped the dipstick clean each time to be accurate.
I used Toyota T-IV ATF (part #00279-000T4) when I changed it sometime ago and when I added the additional quart.
Do you think it's time to replace the transmission? It did the same thing, shifted to R and it engages and drives backwards. When I shifted to D,2, and L nothing happens, it just sits there. If I shit to D and accelerate at the same time, then the tranny engages for a few seconds and it moves forward, but then it makes some hitting noises like if it were getting stuck and it stops working.
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I went ahead and dumped a quart of transmission fluid in and its full. The liquid is still redish. There's a Japanase parts place over by where I live and they sell the Toyota ATF for $5 so when I seviced it about a month ago, I put that in. Also, today when added the quart, today, I put Toyota ATF in there as well.
It's still the same thing. I can put it in reverse and it engages. When I put it on D, 2, or L, nothing happens, it just sits there. One thing I did notice, is that when I put in D and accelerate at the same time, it engages for a few seconds and then the transmission stops working and just sits there like if I had it in park.
So where do we go from here? I bought this car several months ago, as a lien sale, it had been sitting for almost 2 years. When I bought it, no sevirce what's so ever had been done to it, so slowly I started fixing everything that was wrong with it. When I changed out the old transmission fluid, I drained out the pan fluid, took the pan off, replaced the filter or selanoid (not sure what it's called), and put new fluid in there. When I took the old fluid it out it was extremely dirty. It had all kinds of particles stuck in the filter. After I changed it out it was running fine, until a week ago when D wouldn't engage and we had no go.
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Thanks for your quick reply. Actually about a month I changed the transmission fluid, pan gasket, and filter (or whatever is called).
Afterward everything was working fine, the only that seem to be a problem was the shifting in to drive. After I shifted to drive, it took a couple of seconds to engage and when it did, it shifted hard, like if it was slipping and then engaged. While accelerating, it shited fine, no hard shifts and no prolonged shiting. So any suggestions?
Lastly, the hood of the car was replaced after a fender bender, it was replaced with an earlier model one so the tags are different. Is there anywhere else I can find that number? Should I be looking to replace the transmission?
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I have a 1993 Lexus LS400 and my trasmission broke down on me last night. To my suprise there was no more D (drive), there was reverse, but no drive.
I've been calling around to get a price on a transmission and the shops need my transmission number. It is my understanding that there are two transmission models for this year vehicle (A341E and some other one).
Where exactly can I find this number? I been looking all around and I can't seem to find it. I was told that a was blue/green tag on the body of the car, but I haven't had any luck. Any suggenstions or pictures that could help me?
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You must stop driving a transmission the instant it starts slipping & you'll have done nothing more than a brief instant of extremely intensive wear on the clutches. > 90% of transmission failures are from a lack of maintenance. (It's 100% on these transmissions... Their failure rate is purely dependant on the owner/operator.)
For you, aslong as you parked the car instead of driving it while it was slipping. There shouldn't be some insurmountable amount of damage in the transmission.
Let the engine idle in park for about 10 minutes. Shift the transmission into each gear position for several seconds each & shift back to park. With the engine idling, pull the dipstick out to check the fluid level.
In your case you should flush the fluid, or atleast drain the pan & refill it, let it idle in each gear position a minute & then change the fluid again about three times in a row to statistically change aroun 80% of the old fluid out.
In your case, the transmission fluid is most likely quite low & simply needs to be changed out & refilled to the correct capacity to re-enagage the clutch packs.
Your owners manual will show the location of all the ID tags of the car. For that matter, most Lexi/Toyota's have the transmission code on the paint code sticker, and in the primary sticker in the engine bay that describes the vacuum routing for the engine.
:)
Flush your fluid & from now on, change the ATF in ALL of your A/T equipped vehicles atleast once every 2-3 years.
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That's great! As cheap as fluid is, it's always best to spend time playing with the fluid first! Seirously like... $7 a gallon at walmart for descent Dexron-III.
Honestly, it sounds like it's about a quart to a quart & a half too low on fluid, And/Or that, plus the throttle valve (Accelleration cable) is just a hair loose if it's been played with.
Look. Overfilling a transmission is bad, but just go grab a quart & put it in the transmission regardless of where it is tonight. If it's leaking, it'll suck air & whip it into it. That's BAD. Where air is, oil isn't. You'll know that by pulling the dipstick & the fluid will go from red to a real creamy pink.
Otherwise... If you just over-fill it abit & it can't deal with it. It's got a vent it'll spit it back out of.
Just dump a quart of Dex-III down there & get back with me. Let it idle in park for about 5 minutes until the engine is warm, shift it in all positions & check the fluid level with the engine still idling. Tell me what it says. If it's pink we'll need to take a hair of fluid out. If not, it really aint filled too much. ;)
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Well which exact Toyota fluid did you use?
Tat's an older model, See if it has a throttle valve (kick down) cable attached to the throttlebody. If it does, check the tension on it. It controls the pressure inside the transmission.
It'll be the cable that runs straight down to the transmission. The other cable will go to the cruise control box.
Less tension (looser) will cause this if it's way too loose. Tighter (more pressure) will cause more... Sporty like shifting. ;) You may just need to tighten it up some.
Oh, and let it idle in park until it's obviously wamr, shift to all positions & read the dipstick while it idles. (Wipe it off & put it back in.) Where do we stand on fluid now?
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Yeha it may be time.
I'd do a line pressure test on it to see if it's building pressure in the transmission, but so far you've been real good on it. That cable shouldn't be left really loose tho. Normally half-way on it's adjustment, if not pulled alittle tighter to raise the pressure a hair.
AnswerTighten the cable & see if it improves.
There's a specification for play, I think it's .1mm, or .1", I can't remember. You'd have to ahve a set of feeler gauges to do it. But normally it's a close enough type of thing.
It can only go about 3/4" either way & it makes a big differance where it is. Stock is about in the middle. If it doesn't work better one way, go all the way the other way & if it stll doesn't work. Go back where you started from.
