Nissan Repair: 1998 Altima intermittent hesitation/stalling, chain tensioners, oil contamination


Question
Thanks a heap, Von! A follow-up or two... just curious if there's any successful way to clean the optics? Also, I recently had a seized idler pulley replaced, along with a broken motor mount. Wonder if the motor mount - with the rough performance - might have tripped the knock sensor code? I subsequently had to replace the radiator, and now the temp gauge is occasionally erratic (periodically bouncing between norm. op. temp. and cold)... You think the thermo's gone bad? Would an ailing water pump affect it? Thanks again!!


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Followup To
Question -
Hi... I've read many of your posts.  Thanks very much for your time and efforts!

My 1998 Altima GLE (134K) has consistent hesitation on acceleration and consistently intermittent performance and stalling issues. I've checked the distributor for oil contamination (per your posts)... but didn't find anything to speak of.  How much oil is present inside when the seal fails? I see some discoloration spotting to the optical sensor wheel, but other than that, it looks pretty clean in there. A shop attempted diagnosis a while back, but came up empty handed, saying timing chain tensioners and knock sensor (KS error code present, but no SIS light on) were okay. I've replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air and fuel (if I remember correctly!) filters.  Occasionally smell some gas (engine compartment, not inside). Bought salvaged distributor off eBay... thinking of having it put in and timing precisely checked and set. Do you think it could be a fuel/air component? What could the intermittency point to? Much appreciated! Steve
Answer -
Steve,

My bet would be the distributor.  It is an easy replacement as it can only go in two ways.  Take your cap off and note the rotor location and install the new one the same way.  it will go right in.  Also, note where the distributor is bolted down and bolt the new one in the same place.  The timing should be close and then you can check it with a timing light.  Any oil in the optics is bad and I am sure your problem is there.

Answer
Steve,

If the code for the knock sensor goes away after the motor mount was replace there is a good chance that the knocking of parts could have set it off.  The temperature gauge is probably a loose wire on the sending unit or a defective sending unit.  The distributor optics and shutter wheel could be cleaned but it will do it again and soon.  If you are brave you can get a shaft seal for the distributor and take it apart and see if you can replace it.  But, the few that I have done have had other things break in the process.