RV Repair: Rubber Roof Replacement, damage control mode, window sealing

Question
I have a 1994 Prowler 29S camper. I purchased this camper in 1999, it had 1 previous owner. It has an EPDM roof and I annually "rolled" a rubber coating on this roof after cleaning it. The roof developed leaks and I am currently in the process of replacing it. I noticed that the EPDM cracked mostly where it went over the edge of the roof, which is a tight corner. I am planning to use a router to knock this corner off to prevent stress on the new rubber. I have had to do wall repairs due to water getting down inside the wall and causing rot. I found the cause to be that the gutters were not sealed properly underneath and collected water, which eventually rotted away the staples and screws and went down in the wall. I am going to have to do significant repair on the wood along the edges of the roof, including the tops of the walls. Are there any "how-to" guides and recommendations that you know of that can make this repair more "permanent" than the original factory job? What I have found so far is real re-inforcement for regular re-sealing to be done, but I have not been able to get any good advice on how often to do this and where to re-seal (except the windows). My PM on leaks has been window sealing and roof coating and the rest is all damage control. I would like to get out of the damage control mode.

Answer
Hi James:
Unfortunately there are no easy, how to answers. By now you probably know as much as anybody about roofs and coatings. When an RV roof starts to leak it can be a real chore to reseal. Roll on roof coatings work for a fairly short time and then crack and leak, as you have found out. A new roof with regular caulking around all the openings is the way to go but that is a lot of work. We do about 6 to 8 every season and it is a pain every time. Sorry that is all I have. Good luck.
Bill