QuestionQUESTION: This is the first problem in 9 years with this very reliable motor and its a big one. Motor locked up while running. I can rotate the flywheel manually back 1 rotation then foreward 1 rotation. What is the proper way to remove the large nut holding the flywheel?
ANSWER: 3.If the flywheel is equipped with a flywheel clutch, remove it with a flywheel clutch tool while holding the flywheel with a flywheel holder or a flywheel strap wrench. If the flywheel is attached with a nut, use the flywheel holder as a brace, and remove the flywheel retaining nut with the appropriate socket (image B).
Link to image page:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/frequently-asked-questions/Insp
The link above if for a flywheel with attached cooling fins. Most larger engines use a plastic fan bolted to the flywheel. In this case you need a strap wrench, Briggs & Stratton Flywheel Strap Wrench 19433, to hold the flywheel. To use a strap wrench you will need to remove the ignition coil. The Briggs strap wrench is pretty expensive and not very effecient for using in the shop.
The quickest method to remove the nut is with an air impact gun. If you do not have an air compressor you can rent or buy an electric impact gun...these will usually remove the nut unless it is really rusted.
An alternate method is to have a buddy hold the crankshaft pulley with a pipe wrench. DO NOT try to hold the pulley surface, hold the center section between the pullyes or even better get the pipe wrench above the top pulley as close to the engine as possible...this is where the pulley is the strongest.
The strap wrench is the "proper" book answer but the pratical answer is an impact gun or use the buddy to hold the stack pulley.
Let me know if this helps.
Eric
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks for the reply. Ill try your suggestions. I have removed the head, and was able to pull the piston out. Connecting rod broke at the cap. Crankshaft appears OK. Is it worth doing a rebuild?
AnswerIt's a tough call these days on whether or not the do-it-yourself rebuild is worth the money. If you do not need any machine work or a new piston then it may be cost effective to "freshen" the engine with a new connecting rod and chrome rings. If the cylinder and crank require machining then you will have machine and extra parts costs.
Keep in mind "freshening" up the engine is not a new engine...you should get a few years of service but it's not brand new.
You can pick up new engines pretty cheap in the late fall or early winter...dealers want to get the engines off their inventory. A new engine will have all new parts...carburetor, charging system, starter...which you provide you many years of service.
What does the engine power? If you have a good piece of equipment that you plan to keep for another 10 years I'd go for a new engine. If the equipment is old and wore then I would slap in a new connecting rod, chrome rings, lap the valves, set the valve gap and button the engine back up. I have done this a lot with my own projects in the past but these days I can get a new engine pretty cheap and it is easier to just remove and replace.
Let me know what equipment the engine runs and if the piston looks wore. Is your piston silver or black?
Eric
