QuestionQUESTION: David: Well here's what I've done tonight on the Kawasaki 9HP fc 290V. I removed the valve cover to try to find the reed valve. I do not see it there. See the rockers and springs of course but there is not a the little reed valve I expected to see. I have a drawing from a website and it shows what I think you are referring to. So I put the cover back on and then removed 2 shroud pieces to get to the head bolts to check if they were tight. In doing this I seen a small rubber hose running from just under the valve to the carburetor. It was cracked and dried out enough to be leaking. So I replaced it. I checked the head blots and they were all tight. I did not use a torque wrench, but they were tight, I only budged one just a little. The others I didn't force it. What would the torque be on those? I can get a torque wrench to borrow. I looked at what was going to be involved in removing the head. Exhaust off, carb off, look like some magneto wiring, and more shroud pieces. I put the shroud pieces back on a ran it a little(After the hose change), still smokes. It'll fill the garage as it does it's thing. Anyway i hesitatd to remove the head and the stuff on it for tonight. Just wanted some more input.
The engine number is FC290V-CS10, I really can't find that exact number for the drawing. Just one that's close.
Roger
ANSWER: The valve is held on with a single screw and you may need to remove the rocker arm to get to it.
Yes removing the head is quite labor intensive, it involves removing the carb, exhaust etc....
Remember once you remove it you will have to readjust the OHV valves.
If the bolts are tight that should suffice. Wish i could get my hands on this unit....Id like to find the root cause of the problem for you. Your getting there....Fun Huh!
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QUESTION: Can u please help me by explaining the right way to "remove the rocker" to get to the reed valve? What will it take to get it back in the right place? I have looked again I just do not see it by looking around the rockers through them or anything. As far the removing the head...Ok I'm not lazy, I just don't like the idea of breaking off an exhaust bolt etc you see. Sooo I had begun to spray some WD40 on them a few days ago. I tried loosening them(exhaust nuts) tonight. No Problem they'll come loose just fine. Also one other muffler bolt that looked challenging, it will come out just fine too. I can handle the carburetor as long it it comes off all "in tact". You I don't want any springs and stuff flying, and then "where'd that come from?" haha. Then "Hey Dave where does that little thingy go?"
So please guide me through the rocker removal to try to get to the reed vavle. Then I will be "good to go" removing the head if needed. With your guidance.
Oh yea. """Wish i could get my hands on this unit""" Come on DOWN!
Thanks,
Roger
ANSWER: Roger,
Remove the Cylinder head as an assembly first.
Once the Cylinder head is removed the rocker shaft will come out very easy. You should then see the Reed Valve, however if you remove the head and find the head gasket blown, well... thats the problem.
I would suggest you go online to http://www.kawpowerepc.com/ and look at the diagram of both the VAlves-CAmshaft section and the Cylinder-Crankcase section. This should help give you a visual.
It may be in your best interest to buy a service manual from Kawasaki or John Deere for this repair. I have no manuals or sample engines of this type laying around to help if you run into a problem.
Kudos to you for your persistence.... Isn't learning FUN!
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QUESTION: Dave:
I'm Back! I have the Cylinder head removed. Before I did that I rotated the engine to TDC with rotating the engine by hand and a screwdriver in the spark plug hole. I left the engine there, marked the flywheel, and measured the tappet gaps with a feeler gauge. .017" for the intake-.010" for the exhaust. (this may not be the setting procedure, but it's how I got a measurement anyway.)I have found the reed valve and removed it for inspection. I don't see anything wrong with it at all. Not distorted and wasn't dirty. It so cheap I'm sure I'll put a new one in though.
The exhaust valve has quite a bit of caked on carbon buildup. The intake just a thin coating of blackness on it.
I looked over the head gasket thoroughly, looks good. No signs of leaking or blowing out that I see.
Guess I'll get the tools to remove the springs.(spring compressor and what else?.) I thinking of going ahead and get the valve kits and replace the valves. What cha think?
Roger
AnswerYou should be able to remove the valve springs without any special tools.
Check the Valve stems for side to side wear. This is accomplished by putting the valve in the valve guide and wiggling it side to side. If there is a lot of play you may have bad valve guides.
As long as your re this far, how does the cylinder look? You may want to have the cylinder measured for wear, and as long as your this far, put a set of rings in it.
David R
