Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Honda EX1000 Carb rebuild, carburetor diagram, honda ex1000


Question
QUESTION: John

-I'm sorry to add another post but I couldn't figure out where the follow up
feature is?

I sent you two posts on 7/9/2008

-I wrote you the other day About the Honda EX 1000 Generator with a carb
rebuild that wasn’t working.  You asked me …

“Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. “

-As far as I know it’s a Honda EX1000.  Theres a sticker on the red casing
that reads EA4-1173768.  On the engine it says GCO3- 1198217   Beneath
that is ED1*

I had sent you a second message that day wondering if this could be the
problem…

I'm starting to think that the O-ring on the Main jet  may be the problem. I'm
going to disassemble this in the morning and check.  There is suppose to be
a rubber o-ring there right?  (not sure if there’s an o-ring for part #23?  
Reason I ask is there wasn’t one when I removed it but there was some
residue in the threads that could have been?  Read about O-rings causing
problems and I payed attention taqking it apart but wondering if their should
be one somewhere there isn’t?  Some people said you wouldn’t see these O-
rings on the parts picture.  I have all of the parts in the picture.

Do you think this could be the problem?

You asked

“By the Pilot Jet; Are you Asking about the Air Mixture Screw? “

-I think so? It’s a needle screw that goes in on the right side of the carb.  The
same side as the gas lines.  About an inch above the float bowl screw.  In the
Honda carburetor diagram it’s #5  (16016-ZG0-W00) SCREW SET (Honda
Code 4481818).

I removed that screw and spring#5(no O-ring?) along with the float parts: 2
(16011-ZE0-005) VALVE SET, FLOAT (Honda Code 1441476).  And#3(16013-
ZGO-811) FLOAT SET (Honda Code 1807692). Also removed Part # 11
(16166-ZC0-005) NOZZLE, MAIN (Honda Code 2064939) an part # 23
(99101-ZG0-0580) JET, MAIN (#58) (Honda Code 5378).

Part #58 (no o-ring?) seemed to be screwed in snug upon disassembly.  Not
sure if you are saying this part needs to be snugged then backed out 1 1/2
turns?

I did not dissassemble part # 8 (16044-ZC0-D31) CHOKE SET (Honda Code
5377296). #10 (16124-ZE0-005) SCREW, THROTTLE STOP (Honda Code
1441559). OR 24 (99204-ZE0-0350) JET SET, PILOT (#35) (Honda Code
1441609).

I’m starting to think my problem is that I didn’t take apart #24

-I believe the problem must lie in the disassembly and cleaning of part #24.

I’m going to pull the carb off now and clean that out then soak it overnight.

I found that Hayward page in my travels but the diagram is to small to
provide any detail.

-You said

“I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet
Port.”

-How do I do that?

Thank you so much. The almighty has blessed me by finding you .

Thanks for your help!  I’m getting this working for a friend so it’s nice that
my good dead is being rewarded with your expertise.

Any insight or adjustments/techniques will be highly appreciated.

And… May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours also.
Thanks.

  Jerry.



ANSWER: Hi Gerald:

I thought I Recognized the Name. At the Hayward Site you can Enlarge (the + sign in the Upper Left of the Breakdown Screen) the Breakdowns and even Expand the Windows (Dragging them) if Required. I can Refer to the Haywood Site Easier than the Microfiche. I Usually have to Enlarge the Breakdowns 3 or 4 Times to Clearly See the Components of the Carburetors. I wish to Thank You for being so Precise in your Explanations of the Problem and Providing me with Reference Numbers. If Only Everyone was Able to Explain to me in Such Detail the Problem as you have Done, I would be Able to Answer the Questions more Accurately. The O-Ring May be Stuck in the Carburetor Port. Usually if there is Residue from the O-Ring on the Threads, the O-Ring is Stuck and you have Threaded the Jet Out of the O-Ring. Check the Port Real Good for the Old O-Ring. Yes, Replace the O-Ring. The Pilot Jet Screw (#5) is the Idle Air Mixture Screw. It is Set by Turning it All the Way in and then Turning it 1 1/2 to 2 Turns Out. Then with the Engine Running, you Set this Screw so the Engine Does Not Hesitate when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. What is Component #24? I do Not See it on the Microfiche or the Breakdown at the Hayward Site. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: John

I use an Apple computer and for some reason when you use Safari it won't
blow up the Hayward pictures?  But luckily I tried another program... Firefox
and it does.   

Part numbers below are from this diagram:
http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?
MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainframe&LoginID=hywd&loginpwd=hywd&Part
ner=HYWD

So I took the carb apart again and I'm starting to wonder if there is suppose
to be a Rubber O-ring on #23 or between #23  and #11?  It doesn't show one
on the chart?  And it doesn't seem like there is anywhere to put it on this
main jet?  Usually if a part has a rubber O-Ring it shows it as being one of
the parts that comes along with that kit.

For example.  #24.  You said you did not see it on the carb but if you look at
the top of the carb in between number 8 the choke set and number 10 the
throttle screw you'll see #24 and it shows the attached washer as being one of
those parts.  Same is true if you look at # 6 the drain screw.

I pulled #24 out to clean it and get the carb cleaner in there.  Other than that
the carb is apart the same way I took it apart last time.

By the way the number on this carb is 03A[B]HK

So looking at this I'm wondering if part#23 should have an O-ring?  I'm
starting to think no? Although there did seem to be some sort of residue on
the threads it could of just been dirty varnish gunk? I'm guessing you take
#11 put it in there so it goes through the whole and sticks through the hole
and into the carb.  Then I'm guessing  You tighten #23 underneath it snug?  It
was snug when I pulled it out so I don't think that is a 1 1/2 turns out
adjustment?

Also is 23 a solid piece or should there be a hole running through it?  I don't
think mine has a hole but it could just be so gummed up that I can't get
through it?

My 23 is a size 60.  the other 23's are different sizes for different jettings.  If
mine has no hole through it what makes it a sixty versus say a 52?  It just
seems like it seems to me that you just snug up this piece to #11 to hold #11
in place?

Just soaked the carb overnight and blew through it.  Seem's to be completely
clean and un-restricted.

Carb didn't seem badly varnished.  No corrosion.

I'd put it back together and see if it worked but I don't see it helping because
I have done nothing different than last time.

“I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet
Port.”

-How do I do that?

I've re-built a decent number of carbs in my day but I just can't seem to get
this one right?

Any insight of what to do different this time?

ANSWER: Hi Gerald:

Sorry for the Delay. I had a Family Emergency and am Just Now Able to Answer Questions Again. There Should be a Port (Hole) in the Center of the Main Jet (#23). Use Needle or Torch Tip Cleaner Set and Clear the Hole in the Center of the Jet. This should Correct the Problem you are having with the Carburetor. As for the Gas Free Flowing to the Carburetor; if the Engine has No Fuel Pump, then the Gas should Flow Freely from the Fuel Hose at the Carburetor Inlet Port when Removed from the Carburetor Connection. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: John

I hope your family Emergency worked out for you.

We did it! It runs!!!  I've re-built a bunch of carbs and I always knew there
should be a hole in the pilot but this one was so gunked up the muck was
hard as steel, literally.  when I scraped it I thought it was solid and figured
maybe it was part of the design?  I don't know why, shoulda known that. Just
didn't want to force it if I was wong.

Anyway it seems to be running great now.

The 1st question I have is more of a re asurance I did it right

The  (#5)The Pilot Jet Screw/the Idle Air Mixture Screw.

You said
It is Set by Turning it All the Way in and then Turning it 1 1/2 to 2 Turns Out.
Then with the Engine Running, you Set this Screw so the Engine Does Not
Hesitate when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.

I"ve never worked on a carb that doesn't have a throttle cable so I'm kinda
new to this governor arm thing.

I have the Air Mixture screw set about 1 and 3/4 turns out.  It seem's to run
best here.  

I set it by revving the throttle with the governor arm from low to hi and then
dropping the throttle paying attention to how it went up from and back down
to idle.  1 3/4's seemed to be the smoothest?

Am I doing this the right way? When I was setting it I did it like I was tuning a  
guitar.  Just kept revving it till it seemed tuned?   The governor arm seems to
be the only way to rev the engine?

But for the most part it seems to me that the purpose of the governor arm is
to keep the machine at a steady idle and never to rev it.  The only way to rev
it I believe is manually with the governor arm. From what I gather the
purpose of the governor arm is to adjust and keep the idle steady?

In this diagram...
http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP
〈=EN&TF=Mainframe&LoginID=hywd&loginpwd=hywd&Partner=HYWD

Part number 1 KNOB, MANUAL CHOKE.    I found that movie this had little to
do with how the motor ran.  But the further right you go towards choking the
motor till it dies the rougher it would run so I tried to keep it running  and
adjust the pilot so it ran smooth with the choke lever as far right as possible.

Did I do it the right way?

Now that it seems to be running great there's another problem that has come
up.

The sockets have no juice.  I tried depressing the circuit breakers but the
don't seem to depress any further than they are or really do anything?  There
is a little green thing that seems to be sticking out but I'm not sure if it's all
the way out indicating a blown circuit.  The buttons stick out about an 1/8th
inch from the panel. Also the frequency meter doesn't seem to be working.  

Could there be a blown fuse?  Or It may be something came loose when I had
it apart?

I found the owners manual online and read it.
http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/pdf/manuals/31ZC0020.pdf

I read thru it and didn't find anything that would help or I was doing wrong.

Any ideas?

Thanks for helping me to work this out.

I hope everything works out for you.

Thanks

Jerry

Answer
Hi Jerry:

I Think Everything is Going to Work out with the Emergency. I Hope Anyway. Great!!! I am Glad you got it Running. From your Description it Sounds like you Set the Idle Air Screw Correctly. Using the Governor Arm to Rev the Engine when the Engine has No Throttle Control was Perfect. According to the Breakdown for this Generator, there are 2 Circuit Protectors/Breakers. Have you Reset Both of these Protectors/Breakers? The Green Button May be 1 of the Circuit Protectors/Breakers and Requires Resetting. Did you Try to Depress the Green Button? Both of the Circuit Protectors/Breakers on my Unit are Black. The Color of the Circuit Protectors/Breakers Button May be Different Color. At the Hayward Site Select the Control Panel File and you can See the Circuit Protectors/Breakers and Other Related Components. Usually the Circuit Breakers are the Cause of No Current to the Meter and the Sockets if the Generator has Not Been Damaged. You are Very Welcome for the Assistance. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John