Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): STIHL 028 stalls when under load, starter rope, piston rings


Question
QUESTION: The saw was running fine - then it would stall out when it started cutting.  I have followed all instructions on carb adjustment with no change.  I took it to an "authorized" repair center, and the repairman returned it partially disassembled.  He claimed the engine had seized!  It never seized while I used it.  He claims the piston is scored and needs to be replaced at over $300.  Does this sound right?    I have overhauled car engines, but never a small two stroke.  Is it rocket science or do you think I could handle it.  It was such a great saw, but i have limited funds.  Thanks

ANSWER: Hello Jerry:

If you have Rebuilt Car Engines, then the Saw will be a Snap. Remove the Muffler and Inspect the Piston and Jug Assy. You can Look into the Exhaust Port and See the Piston, Rings and Cylinder. You can Move the Piston and Get a Better Look at the Cylinder (Jug) Wall and See if it is Scratched or Gouged. As you Know from Automobiles a Smooth Cylinder Wall is Good and a Rough or Scratched Cylinder Wall is Bad. Explain to me the Condition of the Saw as you Visually See it. What is the Compression? Thanks.

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: John:
I have looked thru the exhaust port - the piston has some scratching.  I can't see the cylinder bore very well, but it also appears to have some scratches.  With three pulls of the starter rope, I get 125 lbs compression that holds.  Doesn't seem to me that the problem is with scoring.  Is there a fuel filter on this saw?  Could it be plugged?  As I said, it started easily, but as soon as I started to saw it would stall.  Any ideas?

Answer
Hello Again Jerry:

If the Jug Assembly/Cylinder and Piston are Holding 125 psi, then the Problem should Not be the Slight Scratches in the Jug/Cylinder. I Suggest you Do the Following; 1-  Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port. If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then  **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable)  and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.** This is the General Carburetor Cleaning File. I Tried to Write it so it Covered Most Carburetors. If you Wish to View a Breakdown of the Carburetor, I Require the OEM (Walbro, Zama, ect) and the Model Numbers Off the Carburetor. With these I can Locate a Breakdown of the Carburetor and Better Assist you.  Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:  ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** 2- Replace the In Tank Fuel Filter. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John