Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): 2nd Follow up, keyway, seat safety

Question
Hi John,

Okay, I ordered the flywheel key from Sears.  To be exact, I ordered two keys just in case.  Interestingly enough, the keys have the same part number but do not look the same.  One is exactly like the old key (flat on the back and rounded on the front, like a crescent) while the other is beveled on the back and rounded on the front.  Which one to use?  There are no instructions in the owners manual on what order to put the key in so can you tell me which side of the key goes towards the shaft?  Does the key go in first or do you put the flywheel on then somehow tap the key down in there?  Though there is a keyway on the flywheel, the first 3/8" to 1/2" on the shaft is solid.  Once I get the key in, is it okay to try and crank it before reassembling it all or is there some kind of safety thing that prevents that from happening without all the covers over it?  Thanks for your help again!

Best regards,
Frank


Follow up to question...still having problem
Question   Hi John,

I got your reply (the model number of the mower is 917.271022 and the engine is the Kohler model CV15S) and accordingly rebuilt the carburetor (after soaking it in carb cleaner for 24 hours) and included a new fuel solenoid.  After I did that, it finally cranked and ran for about 2 hours to cut the grass.  A week later, I ran it again for about 30 minutes then it backfired and died and has not cranked again.  I read many of the other answers on the board about Craftsman tractors with this engine and so proceeded to replace the following:  both operator presence relays, the seat safety switch, the stator, the ignition module, and the fuse.  I then made sure the battery was fully charged and tried to crank it.  It had PLENTY of power but it just turned over and over without starting.  It sounded like it should have started at any minute.  I took off the air filter and poured a cup of gas down the carb but this didn't help either.  I have now replaced all the parts I have seen mentioned on several previous emails.  Any ideas before I push this mower off a cliff and buy either a Cub Cadet/Husqvarna/John Deere?  

Thanks for all your help!
Frank

Your Question was:

Hi John, I have a Craftsman lawn tractor model 917.271022 that I purchased in mid-1999.  It has the 15.5 hp Kohler engine.  For the past couple of years it has given me a great deal of trouble of one sort or another.  The latest event happened this weekend.  I used the mower about 10 days ago without issue.  I went to start it on Saturday and it didn't turn over very well.  It has seemed to lose its battery charge every 3rd or 4th time I use it despite having a new battery.  I cranked it until it ran the battery down.  I charged the battery, cleaned the air filter foam element, checked the fuel line for obstructions and filter quality, and replaced the spark plug.  It cranks extremely well now but won't actually start.  From what I can tell, it has spark and it has gas getting to the carb.  That leads me to believe it is either the carb or some sort of electrical interlock/relay issue.  I have scheduled a service call for July 9th but I had rather fix it myself.  The carb solenoid and carb repair kits run about $65 in total.  If I were to buy that and fix it then great.  But if I were to buy it and find out it was a relay or something, I would feel pretty stupid.  Many more problems and I will be looking for a new ride.  I cut 1.5 acres of Bermuda about every 10 days with this mower.  Thanks for your help.    With best regards, Frank

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Answer   Hello Again Frank:

From you E-mail I See you have Not Checked the Cylinder Compression or the Flywheel Key. If you are Sure the Plug is Firing and Pouring a Small Amount of Gas (1oz) Into the Carburetor Throat Did Not Get the Usual Start and Quit Response, then Check the Flywheel Key. The Flywheel Key Times the Plug to Fire at the Proper Time in the Compression (Power) Stroke of the Engine. If the Key is Damaged or Sheared the Problem you Described will Occur. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. When Replacing the Flywheel, Remember the Flywheel Nut is Torqued to 150 Foot Pounds. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John  

Answer
Hi Frank:

Then Key that Matches your Old Key Should be the Correct Key. The Flat Side Should be Facing the Slot in the Flywheel. Insert the Key Into the Crankshaft and then Carefully Place the Flywheel Onto the Crankshaft. Was the Old Key Damaged? Remember to Torque the Flywheel Nut to 150 Foot Pounds. The Key Does Not Hold the Flywheel. It is for Timing of the Plug Firing to the Piston Location During the Power (compression) Stroke. It Sounds like Someone Messed Up and Sent a Wrong Key. It Happens More than you Could Imagine. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John