Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Repower John Deere 111, kawasaki engine, fertilizer spreader

Question
QUESTION: Original engine was an 11 HP B&S
Model 252707
Code 0644-01
Type 82092911

I've been told that an 11 hp wtih OHV will not fit under the hood. One
company said that an 18 hp v-twin would work. However, it is approx. $900.
This is too much for me. Do I have any other options? I got an estimate to
rebuild mine for $500. I wouldn't mind $500 for a new engine but I'm not
sure about spending that much for rebuilding.

Currently mine burns a little oil and leaks. I can live with adding oil everytime
I use it but the main problem is the governor does not work. I can manually
turn it clockwise and the engine will speed up. It will NOT turn
counterclockwise. The governor hasn't worked for about 5 years. The mower
isn;t used much but I am now using it a lot more for pulling a cart, sprayer,
fertilizer spreader and occassionally rough mowing and need the governor to
work.

Any help on repower options, guesstimates of what is wrong with the
governor (broken weights, adjustments, etc.) and links on how to
troubleshoot further, repair / adjust, etc. is appreciated.

Thanks
ANSWER: Wow! still trying to keep the old 111 alive.

Pull engine and split the case. If the PTO clutch comes off, and that's a big if, replace the sump gasket and governor assembly, also change the head gasket and your smoking will be gone.Parts cost under 40.00. Pull the head off first and take a look. If the jug is scored stop right there, your done.
There is probably no repair option for less than 500.00.
Skip the rebuild though. Remember the trans is as old as the engine.
By the way, the OHV will work if the crank is right. You just have to be creative.
Most Deere dealers will have a used LX series tractor in the 700.00 - 1,000.00 range. Kawasaki engine, hydro transmission,  an LX is bullet proof and because of the low prices on new Deere at Home Depot and Lowes the LX resale value is grossly low.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the info. I guess I will try to replace the parts you suggested. Is there
a tool that I need to take the PTO clutch off with? What is the torque specs for
the head bolts and oil pan?
Any good places online to order the parts?

Answer
If you are lucky the oil leaking engine has dribbled copious amounts of oil onto the PTO clutch. This will definitely help.
The secret to clutch removal is to keep it going straight. If it gets cocked sideways it will seize tighter than Hoagies Goat and the hounds of hell can't pull it off.
Use a standard 2 jaw puller for removal.
The clutch is multiple layers.
The first layers are all sheet metal, what you want to mount the puller to is the first cast iron layer. It will have a very thin edge (about 1/4" thick)and be the only part that actually rotates with the crank.
Hook on to the thin edges and turn the forcing screw on your puller until tight, next strike the end of the puller with a big hammer. Retighten puller and repeat until clutch is off. Word of caution, leave clutch mounting bolt at least 2 or 3 threads into crank until clutch is off, if you don't when the clutch comes off it WILL crush your hand against the floor. I learned this lesson the hard way.
Torque specs on a Briggs are so non critical it's ridiculous. I haven't used a torque chart in 20 years.
Tighten the head bolts 2 fingers tight with a 3/8 ratchet in a star burst pattern, tighten pan bolts as tight as you can with a 1/4 inch ratchet.
If all you want to do is use the 111 for a tow vehicle if the clutch is damaged cut off a section of iron pipe and install it on the crank instead of the clutch.
John Deere parts can be ordered online at reynoldsll.com, or visit your local Deere dealer to avoid shipping costs.