Steering Column Repair: steering column, steering column repair, upper shaft

Question
i have a 85 chevy k 10.  when i bought the truck the steering wheel wobbled a little.  then the ignition switch would only work when the wheel was in the down position.  now it doesnt work at all.  i have been told i need to replace the whole steering column.  is this true and where is the best place to find one.  are they real expensive new.  would i be better finding one a a junk yard.  thanks for your help

Answer
Hi,

It sounds like the rack inside the column is attached to the ignition actuator rod.
A junk yard column will be no better because this is such a common problem.
Here is my canned answer.

Rob

Hi,

I have a general answer for these GM tilts that I supply because they all come loose from grabbing the steering wheel to get in.
This one I answered was for a tilt and telescopic, but once you have the steering wheel off, the column is the same.
Instead of the "C" clip, you have a snap ring on the upper shaft.
You need to be real careful when you get down to the loose bolts that the sphere on the upper shaft does not becomes disconnected.
This column requires some specialty tools and can be frustrating to work on if you have never rebuilt one before. I am giving you step by step instructions if you want to try it. If not, you can contact me at Robo14@aol.com and I can rebuild it if you pull it out. I charge $150.00 plus shipping.

Good luck on any direction you may go.

Rob











JAMES GREEN Asks in Category Steering Column Repair:
Subject: CADDILAC STEERING WHEEL REPAIR
Question: HI ROB, I HAVE A 1986 CADDILAC FLEETWOOD BROUGHHAM. THE STEERING WHEEL RECENTLY BECAME LOOSE AND IT MOVES UP AND DOWN AND FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND IT'S BEGINING TO EFFECT THE GEAR SHIFT. IS THERE A WAY I CAN TIGHTEN THIS MYSELF TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS AN IF SO PLEASE INFORM ME THE CORRECT WAY TO DO THIS. THANK YOU
Answer: Hi,

If you were to look at my recent answers you would find this is a very very common problem. If you want it repaired, you can remove the column and send it to me. I can do a total rebuild for $150.00 plus shipping and you will never have problems again. The danger here is that the column can litterally split in half while you are driving.
My personal email is robo14@aol.com
I will include the nswer here if you want to tackle it yourself, but there is nothing like the feeling of seeing little ball bearings fall to the floor. If you have never done this repair you need to know that there are specialty tools required. NEVER take a steering wheel off by hitting the upper shaft with a hammer! One of my most recent answers explains why when the owner collasped the steering shaft.
However you want to do it is fine and I think you will find very detailed instructions here.

Good Luck!


The most common problem is that there are 4 bolts that come loose. If you try to cheat and only tighten two you will be redoing this in a matter of weeks. This is a permanent repair and should only take you a couple of hours.
In the instructions I explain why, but you will need to go to a hardware store and pick up a 5/16-18x1 hex head Allen bolt. You will find this required for easy of assembly when compressing the lock plate.
You will not need a blow up or order of parts because these instructions are explicit.

Good luck!






I don't know of a good blow up. Commonly factory service manuals will have you take apart things that are not supposed to come apart. The bearings are most likely not the problem but the 4 yoke bolts are. They commonly come loose by grabbing the steering wheel to get in.
Remove the horn pad (7 mm or 9/32 either will work on the back of the steering wheel. Push downward on cancel cam tower and turn counter clockwise. The horn wire is now disconnected. Take the tele lever and turn counter clockwise. Remove three 9/32 screws. Remove lever from steering wheel. Turn lever stud in upper shaft counter clockwise until it can be removed. Be careful edges are sharp. You can unscrew with needle nose in center holes if needed. Remove 13/16 steering wheel nut. Index marks may be hard to see. Take a screwdriver and put on upper shaft and tap. Put adjoining mark on wheel if these factory marks can't be seen. It is for reassembly and so that the steering wheel is put on the way it was taken off. Install puller using 2(2) 5/16x 16 x 3 bolts. Draw the wheel off. When you remove wheel pull it straight off because of the spring under the wheel. Remove rubber bushing from upper shaft. Use a hook tool inserted into one of the rectangular slots on the cancel cam insulator. Try to pull straight up. It is plastic and gets brittle after time. You will now see the three tabs on the cancel cam protruding from the lock plate. Note the position for reassembly. Install lock plate tool and push lock plate until “C"clip is loose. You can remove by inserting a screwdriver in the big end and it will start to slide out of the groove in the upper shaft. You need to pay special attention here. The “C” clip only slides into the shaft one way. Remove by grabbing with needle nose and pulling away from shaft. Remove lock plate. Pull off cancel cam an upper shaft spring. Take a small Phillips and push in on the 4 way flasher and unscrew. Hold together while unscrewing so it does not fall apart on you. Take a Phillips and remove the turn signal screws and the turn signal pivot. Pay attention to how this pivot slides in the groove of the wiper switch.