Volkswagen Repair: VW rabbit gas tank removal, tank level indicator, inspection mirror

Question
I have a 1982 WV rabbit conv. and when I jack it up from the pass. side gas drips on the driver side. How can I remove the gas tank to check for leaks?

Answer
Hi Robert, I'm pretty certain already that there are "pin-holes," at least on the top of the tank, where dirt, and leaves, and pine needles have collected to hold moisture, and ultimately rust through your fuel tank.  The filler neck, and fuel lines and the tank level indicator/fuel pump assembly all have to be removed.  It sounds like you'll be doing this on the ground, so use some blocks of wood to hold the tank while you feel around up on top to get the electrical connections, and fuel lines off.  Get an inspection mirror, if you don't already have one, and plenty of batteries for your flashlight so you can get a good look at what you are doing as you proceed to get everything off of the tank.  The lighter the tank is the better, so get the fuel out of it anyway you can.  Drive the car, siphon the fuel, anything, to get the fuel out so you don't have the extra added weight, and the slosh factor going against you during this removal.  There should be rubber covered metal straps that hold the tank in place.  On one end there should be threaded rod through a bar, and nuts up on top,  the other end of the straps will be bent, and fit through slots in another bar under the car on the other end of the tank.  Get the car up far enough off the ground first to clear the tank once it's loose.  So, use a tape measure to see how deep the tank is, and add about 6 inches to that so the removal, from under the car, at least will be easy.  Once the car is up safely on jack stands, and level...don't take any chances, then position some of the wood blocks such that the tank will be supported by them, and not you.  Release the threaded rods, and then snake the straps out from under the car.  With your flashlight, and inspection mirror, if necessary, remove the electrical connector to the top of the tank, and then remove the lines.  Mark the lines somehow so you know which one goes where when the tank goes back in, you don't want them reversed, because one is the supply, and the other is the return.  There is probably a third line, just confuse things even more, and that is a vent pipe to the EVAP canister, and furthermore there may be a forth line that would be used as a vent, but I don't think so in 1982, I think there should be only 3 lines total to the top of the tank.  They have al been there for a long time, so be prepared to struggle with everything.  A good sized quantity of penetrating lubricant sprayed on things for a day or two will help, but there will still be a struggle.  God forbid you should need it, but have a good chemical fire extinguisher close at hand too.  You can't be to careful when it comes to the explosion potential of gasoline.  I hope you can, at least do this in a garage, and not outside, so you can hopefully control the temperature a little bit.  Do it late after the sun has gone down, or early while the day is still cool.  That will help reduce the vapors, and the explosion hazard.  Remember, Robert, be patient, and prepare yourself, and the surrounding area before proceeding to just get the tank out.  If it take a few days instead of a few hours, that's OK, as long as you, and your family are safe...look things over thoroughly, and get familiar with the locations of the fasteners, connector(s), and hoses, and where they all go.  A digital camera can be of great assistance for taking pictures of what it looked like when you started, so when you finish, it can all go back together in basically the same orientation.