The 1997 Ford Escort had three trim levels available: the base model, the LX and LX wagon. All three trim levels had a 2.0-liter four-cylinder engine with a five-speed manual transmission or an optional automatic transmission. The replacement of the front drive axle or CV shaft is the same across all models, but the process must be followed precisely to prevent damage to the transmission. Once either or both of the CV shafts have been replaced, the vehicle will need a front end alignment before you drive it any distance.
Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be serviced with the lug wrench. Lift the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and place the jack stands under the front subframe rails. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands.
Remove the lug nuts and wheel from the side of the vehicle to be serviced. Notice the staked portion of the wheel hub nut. Place a small chisel into the opening and hit it with a hammer to raise the staked portion of the nut. Instruct a helper to start the engine and press the brake pedal. Remove the wheel hub nut with the breaker bar and socket. Instruct the helper to shut off the engine and exit the vehicle. Discard the wheel hub nut.
Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end with the pliers. Remove the tie rod end castle nut with the socket and ratchet. Attach the tie rod separator to the tie rod end and steering knuckle. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle with the tie rod separator.
Remove the ball joint pinch nut with the socket and ratchet while securing its pinch bolt with a combination wrench. Tap the ball joint retaining nut with a hammer to drive it from the steering knuckle pinch point. Pry down on the lower control arm with the pry bar to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Pull the steering knuckle toward the outside of the vehicle and pull the CV shaft out of the wheel hub. If the CV shaft does not want to pull freely from the hub, use a chisel and hammer to lightly tap the CV shaft out of the wheel hub.
If your are removing the driver side CV shaft, remove the four bolts for the front crossmember and remove the crossmember from under the vehicle to access the CV shaft at the transmission. Pry the CV shaft from the transmission by placing the pry bar between the transmission case and CV shaft. Exercise extreme caution to not damage the transmission case or transmission oil seal. Remove the CV shaft from the vehicle.
If both CV shafts are removed at the same time, it is necessary to install the transaxle plugs into each axle opening at the transmission to prevent the differential side gears from becoming misaligned; leaded to a hefty repair bill.
Install the bearing retainer C-clip included with the new CV shaft, if it is not already installed. Remove the transmission plugs if previously installed. Line up the splines of the CV shaft with the side gears inside the transmission and slide the CV shaft into the transmission. When the CV shaft is seated properly you will feel it as the C-clip snaps into place.
Pull out on the steering knuckle and slide the CV shaft into the wheel hub. It should slide in easily, but if it does not, do not force it into place. Push down with a pry bar on the lower control arm and push the steering knuckle toward the engine compartment. Line up the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle and guide it into position. Slide the stud through the pinch point hole in the steering knuckle and install the nut onto the pinch bolt. Tighten the nut to between 32 and 43 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.
Position the tie-rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to between 25 and 33 foot-pounds of torque. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and tie rod end stud and bend each end of the cotter pin around the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut slightly if necessary to line up the opening in the castle nut with the hole in the tie rod end.
Install the wheel hub nut onto the CV shaft and wheel hub. Instruct the helper to start the engine and press the brake pedal. Tighten the hub nut to between 174 and 235 foot-pounds of torque with the torque wrench. Instruct the helper to shut off the engine and exit the vehicle. Place the small chisel onto the hub nut directly over the rectangular opening on the CV shaft and tap the chisel with a hammer to stake the hub nut to the axle at least 0.5 mm. If the hub nut cracks or splits in half, remove it and replace it with a new retainer.
If the driver side axle was replaced, install the front crossmember under the vehicle and tighten all four mounting bolts to between 69 and 93 foot-pounds of torque. Place the wheel onto the vehicle and hand tighten the lug nuts.
Lift the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to between 66 and 86 foot-pounds of torque with the torque wrench. Replace any lost transmission fluid before operating the vehicle and drive the vehicle to a repair shop to have a front-end alignment completed.
