The clutch allows power to travel from the engine, through the transmission and driveshaft, to the rear wheels. Torque increases with engine rpm, and a truck needs quite a bit of torque to move a heavy load from a stop. The clutch allows the engine to build up this required torque by disconnecting the engine from the transmission, allowing the engine to turn faster. As you release the clutch pedal, the clutch engages and gradually transfers the power to the transmission. If the clutch is worn out, it slips, and power does not get transferred properly.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, using the appropriate wrench. Lay the cable aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Raise the vehicle, using the floor jack, then support it with jack stands.
Disconnect the fluid coupling at the transmission using the coupling removal tool. Tug on the tube and slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder at the same time. Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Slide the jack under the oil pan and jack it up enough to touch the bottom of the oil pan, thus supporting the engine.
Disconnect the gear shift linkage at the transmission, using the screwdriver and appropriate socket. Disconnect the speedometer cable, using your fingers. Unplug the harness from the backup light switch.
Remove the driveshaft, using the appropriate socket -- unbolt it at the rear, then pull it out of the transmission. Stuff a shop rag in the back of the transmission to keep oil from leaking out. Raise the transmission just enough that you can remove the transmission mount. Remove the mount, using the appropriate socket. Balance the transmission on the jack.
Remove the bellhousing bolts, using the appropriate socket. Pull the transmission back enough so that the input shaft clears the clutch housing, then lower the transmission and move it from under the vehicle. If you are replacing the slave cylinder at this time, remove the dust cover, using the appropriate socket. Remove the release lever and bearing from the clutch housing by removing the dust boot and pushing the release lever forward to release the slave cylinder. Remove the plastic clip that retain the slave cylinder to the bracket, then remove the slave cylinder.
Mark the pressure plate and cover assembly, and the flywheel so that they can be reinstalled in the same position. Loosen the pressure plate and cover attaching bolts in a staggered sequence, and one turn at a time, using the appropriate socket. The pressure plate is under pressure, and could come off and smack you in the face if you remove the bolts too fast. Remove the pressure plate and cover assembly, then remove the disc from the flywheel.
Place the clutch disc on the flywheel and insert the aligning tool in the pilot bearing to align the disc. Mark the new pressure plate and cover assembly with marks in the same place you marked the old one. Install the new pressure plate and cover assembly on the flywheel and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in an alternating sequence a few turns at a time until you reach the proper torque. For 10- and 12-kinch clutches, torque the bolts to 17 foot-pounds of torque. For an 11-inch clutch, tighten the bolts to 25 foot-pounds of torque.
Remove the clutch alignment tool. Apply a light coat of grease on the sides of the driving lugs. Position the clutch release bearing and bearing hub on the release lever. Install the release lever on the fulcrum in the flywheel housing. Apply a light coating of grease to the release lever fingers and the fulcrum. Fill the release bearing hub's groove with grease.
Reinstall the flywheel housing and tighten the bolts to 45 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the transmission and driveshaft. Fill the master cylinder and bleed the system.
