How To Build Your Own Tube Bumper - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

Fred Williams Brand Manager, Petersen’s 4Wheel & Off Road

If you’ve ever visited Southern California, you’ve probably came across what is commonly referred to as a prerunner truck. It is usually decked out with white fiberglass fenders that have not been painted yet due to lack of funds, a bunch of tube work in the bed where giant shocks are attached, a pair of spare tires for that race-ready look, and a front tube bumper with a big aluminum skidplate. These trucks usually have some sort of long-travel independent front suspension and are commonly based on two-wheel-drive Toyota and Ford Ranger mini trucks due to their fuel economy and low price.

how To Build A Tube Bumper 2003 Chevy Avalanche Photo 37969168

Our old ’03 Chevy Avalanche was built as a big heavy trail monster for the 2003 Ultimate Adventure (“Ultimate Avalanche,” Aug.–Nov. ’03), but we’re slowly looking for ways to slim it down and make it more of a desert exploring truck. The old TrailReady front bumper worked awesome but was made of very heavy plate steel. We decided that a prerunner-style front bumper made of lighter tube would help this big pig of a truck. While it will never be nimble, it can be lighter over all. FabWorx helped design and build this straightforward front bumper, and we’re going to show you how to make your own with some simple fabrication tools.

how To Build A Tube Bumper 2003 Chevy Avalanche With Big Trail Ready Bumper Photo 37969162 Our old bumper housed a 15,000-pound Warn winch and had been built by TrailReady back in 2003. The bumper looked good, protected the front end well, but weighed so much it took three guys to install it. PhotosView Slideshow With the old bumper removed, Forrest Moore did some CAD (cardboard-aided design) to figure out the front tube mounts. The bumper will bolt onto the front framerails with tube sleeves inside the frame for the bolts. Cutting the mounts from 1⁄4-inch plate with a plasma table was quick and easy work for the FabWorx team, but you could do it at home with a cutoff wheel, a grinder, a torch, a plasma cutter, a metal band saw, or even a hacksaw. The plates go on either side of each front framerail. The curved top will weld to the top tube that wraps around the grille. If you were building this at home a hole saw would easily cut those curves. The top tube is 2x0.120-wall with four simple bends to wrap around the front end. We went with the larger-diameter tube since it looked better and is stronger on the fullsize Avalanche. A smaller 4x4 could get away with 13⁄4- or 11⁄2-inch tubing. Determine early what size tube you want to use, as buying a bender with a single die is cheaper than a variety of dies to start with. More CAD work as Moore develops a winch mount. Most prerunner bumpers don’t include a winch because of the weight and cost, but we feel a new Warn VR10000 with lighter Spydura rope will help keep the pounds down. Gabe Beiden bent and dimpled the front 1⁄8-inch plates for the bumper mounts. Dimple-died holes reduce weight and add rigidity to an otherwise flimsy piece of flat plate. The winch plate is also made of 1⁄4-inch and welded in along with the dimpled plates. A smaller lower tube is added for triangulation and additional strength. The bumper is much lighter than our old design and tucks up nice and tight against the front to improve approach angle. A round piece of steel caps the end of the tubes. Clean welds and a coat of primer and paint will give the bumper a finished look, or it can be removed and powdercoated for even more resilience. Our 1⁄8-inch aluminum skidplate bolts on and has an opening for the winch fairlead. The bumper was finished but looked funny with the large blank surface. We pulled the plate back off and went at it with a hole saw attached to our drill press. Careful measurement is done to make sure the holes are straight and don’t overlap the winch plate. Next we dimple-died the aluminum with a set of dies from Chappelle’s Kustoms. The holes will reinforce the skidplate, allow additional airflow to cool the big-block engine, and look better than the blank sheet of aluminum. Behind the skidplate hides our Warn VR10000 winch. Though it has a lighter rating than our previous 15,000-pound winch, the overall size and the addition of the Spydura rope make it an easy fit, plus a snatch block can double the pulling power if we need it.

We also added a tube for hooking up the winch hook so it wouldn’t dangle below the bumper where it could get pinched or cut should we encounter a boulder along the trail. Below that we bolted on a Warn tow hook in case we need a tug or double line pull. We may add some light tabs and a pair of brights to the top bar down the road, but for now the bumper is complete and ready to run.

how To Build A Tube Bumper winch Fairlead Attached To Tube Photo 36131783