Driveshaftology:The Ins and Outs of Driveshafts and U-Joints - Jp Magazine

Verne Simons Senior Editor, Jp

U-joints are simply awesome! Why? They allow rotational forces to be transmitted around corners. U-joints, Rezeppa-joints, Double Cardan-joints, and CV-joints all allow your driveshafts and axleshafts to spin and your tires to turn. Sounds technical, huh? Not really. It’s actually pretty simple, but if a U-joint or driveshaft is unhappy so is your Jeep. And without addressing the problem you soon will be too! We recently lifted our blue and grey ’01 WJ Laredo with a 6-inch Clayton Off Road long-arm suspension and as a result had to play the game of adjusting pinion angles, driveshaft style, and length in an attempt to make a much taller and more capable off-road vehicle drive down the road without sounding like a DC-3 fighting for altitude.

driveshaftology custom Jeep Grand Cherokee Photo 41092566

Follow along as we talk about the ins and outs of pinion angle, driveshaft length, and collapsible driveshafts verses slip-yoke-type transfer cases all with the help, parts, and advice of Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts. We also will show a little more about one of Tom’s products; a NP242 slip yoke eliminator for the early XJ T-case in our ’01 WJ.

driveshaftology u Joint Photo 37436821 What you see here is the U-joint main body, the cross … it’s cross shaped. At the end of each cross is a machined area where the cap lives. This is called the trunion or journal. On the right is a U-joint cap. It’s basically a bearing and race that allow the axleshaft or driveshaft to pivot a few degrees relative to the axis of the U-joint. See all those little needle bearings in the cap? If you accidentally knock off a cap and those bearings fall out you are in trouble unless you can get them all clean and back in the cap. Miss one and your cap is gonna fail! Some U-joints have grease fittings on them. Use ’em to add grease frequently if you’ve got ’em.

This kit is a breeze to install and allows the use of a longer, collapsible, and shiny Tom Wood’s rear driveshaft without having to cut, machine, and tap your NP242’s mainshaft in the driveway. And if you’re confused about driveshaft types, measuring for angles, slopes, U-joints, or any of that high-tech stuff, the company’s website is filled with info.

driveshaftology double Cardan Joint Photo 37270654 This is a double cardan, (not cardigan—that’s a sweater) or CV. This type of joint houses two identical U-joints within a coupling that operates the U-joints in equal, but opposite angles. These opposite angles cancel out opposing vibrations for smoother operation. Somewhere along the line “the man” stopped making these things greaseable. We’d like to “grease” the penny pincher responsible (not literally, we are lovers not fighters) because they last much longer when they are greased regularly. Most typically max out at about 30 degrees of angularity. The longer a shaft is the more wheel travel you will have without a CV or U-joint binding. PhotosView Slideshow Setting the pinion angle of a double cardan shaft is fairly simple. You want the pinion aimed directly at the rear output of the transfer case. This is the case for the shaft of our WJ with the Tom Wood’s NP242 slip-yoke eliminator installed. This rig has a triangulated four-link and so the pinion is aimed directly in-line with the driveshaft. If it were a Jeep with leaf springs it would be aimed 1 to 2 degrees below. That way as torque is applied to the rear axle the pinion rotates up a hair (a degree or two), the double cardan driveshaft is perfectly happy. If your Jeep has a standard driveshaft (one U-joint at the front, one at the back), then you need to set the pinion angle so the U-joints are in phase. What the heck does that mean? The axis of pinion rotation and the axis of output shaft rotation must be parallel. What the heck does that mean? Well the U-joint caps travel in elliptical paths as a driveshaft turns at an angle, so the caps change speed constantly and vibrate. If the U-joints are in phase, or at the same angle, the vibrations cancel each other out. If one is out of phase, both will vibrate. Again for a rear axle with leaf springs, you want the pinion to be down 1 to 2 degrees to compensate for pinion angle change when under load. Adjusting pinion angle is easy if you have a link suspension with adjustable control arms. We like to set the Jeep’s frame on large jackstands, remove the coil springs, and use a floor jack or jackstands to hold the axle at ride height relative to the chassis. If the pinion is low, either shorten both the uppers or lengthen both the lowers. If the pinion is too high, lengthen both the uppers or shorten both the lowers. If your Jeep has leaf springs you will need to cut and remove the spring perches from the axle and install new ones. Then you can loosely bolt the axle back in place, check its position side to side, and while the axle is on jackstands and the weight of the vehicle is on the axle, use a floor jack or rubber mallet to adjust the pinion angle. When it is just right you can weld the spring plates to the axle. Inspecting your driveshafts frequently is a good idea, especially if you play in the rocks, mud, or water. You want to put the parking brake on and put your Jeep in Neutral. Now climb under there and start twisting. You want to feel for any give, slop, or looseness. Replace any U-joints that exhibit any of these symptoms. Also, look for dents in the driveshaft tubing, missing weights, and these little tangs on the yokes. If these are broken the U-joint is probably off center in the yoke and your driveshaft is gonna poop out sooner rather than later. Installing the Tom Wood’s NP242 slip-yoke eliminator is maybe one of the easiest transfer case modifications we have experienced. It’s easier than a NP231 slip-yoke eliminator because the back of the front output on a NP242 has a snap ring you can remove. This allows the mainshaft, chain, and front drive gear to be removed and installed all at once. Just follow Wood’s instructions and you’ll be fine. Oh and a good set of snap ring pliers are very helpful. Don’t forget to send Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts your old NP242 mainshaft. It has a large core charge. Wood also had us measure for a new driveshaft to for our slip-yoke eliminator and sent us this beautiful clear-coated shaft. All the bad vibrations are gone now that our U-joints are happy and at less of an angle. Our driveshaft is fairly long and allows for quite a bit of downtravel without binding the double cardan. This would be different in a TJ where binding would occur with less downtravel because the driveshaft is relatively short. Also, the use of a double cardan allows you to bring the pinion up relative to the t-case. This again lessens the angles of the CV as the pinion is higher and the driveshaft is at less of a slope.