Vintage Jeep Dana 44 Big Brakes - Jp Magazine

Pete Trasborg Brand Manager, Jp

You might not realize it, but quite a few of the things that eventually become tech articles in these pages start with bench racing sessions with our friends. Normally we try to stay away from custom machining and new parts when we are trying this stuff out and just assemble it with junkyard parts to try to test the theory before we print it. In this case, we had heard from several sources that by taking a combination of 3⁄4-ton Ford, 1⁄2-ton Ford or Chevy, and 1⁄2-ton Dodge parts, it was possible to put together a dual-piston-caliper big-brake upgrade on the cheap.

vintage Big Brakes dana 44 With Big Brake Kit Photo 37451800

We had some of the parts on the shelf, but not enough to pull it off. Then, we were on the phone with Bob Levenhagen, the owner and founder of T&T Customs, and he told us that not only was it possible, but that he’d done it. Levenhagen said we would need to do some machining and maybe some grinding, but that it would definitely work. We then spent a few days with our parts store contacts to do some number crunching to figure out the exact years we wanted to try to mix-and-match from. Once we had our outline, we then put our money where our keyboards were and contacted Rock Auto and Randy’s Ring and Pinion for the parts we didn’t have. We proved Levenhagen right, with some small modifications.

This setup will work on earlier open-knuckle front Dana 30 and Dana 44 axles. We went with a 5-on-5½ bolt pattern because those were the parts we had. If you wanted to go to a 6-on-5½ or a 8-on-6½ pattern, you could either redrill the Dodge ½-ton rotors or use stock Ford ¾-ton rotors. Unfortunately, like all the other big-brake kits, this one requires large-diameter wheels. We already had 17s, so it was a slam dunk for us to go this route.

In the end, we were able to prove you can put together a huge brake system with dual-piston calipers and nearly 13-inch rotors for massive stopping power. If you can use all junkyard parts, it’ll cost less than $300. Or, if your junkyards suck, you can still get it done for less than the price of many aftermarket kits out there using all new parts.

Show Me the Money!
Here are three different ways to get big brakes on your axle. The ultra-low-buck pull-it-yourself junkyard way, the way we ended up doing it, and the all-new-parts mail-order way. If we were to buy all the parts shown in the photos new for this conversion, the right-hand column shows what it would cost.

vintage Big Brakes parts And Price List Photo 37451809 PhotosView Slideshow This blown-up view of the assembly shows what part goes where. For the full part description and part number that we used, check out the table at the end of the story. Thanks to Randy’s Ring and Pinion for the part interchange information. From left to right: (A) Hub and wheel studs; ’73-’76 F100, ’76-’92 Bronco. (B) Rotor; ’02-’11 Dodge Ram 1500. (C) Spindle and bearings; ’73-’79 F150, ’78 Bronco. (D) Caliper bracket and caliper; ’76-’79 F250. (E) Knuckle; ’75-’96 Ford Bronco, F150, F250 (Dana 44). (F) Ball joints; ’72-’86 Jeep CJ, Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer/J10/J20 (Dana 30 and Dana 44); ’71-’80 International Scout; ’70-’86 GM 1/2- and 3⁄4-ton; ’71-’96 Ford Bronco, F150, F250; ’72-’93 Dodge 1/2-ton) If you’re lucky, you will be able to mix-and-match the parts right out of the junkyard. Most yards charge based on how many lugs the parts have or what weight rating it originally came out of. That means a five- or six-lug assembly will be less expensive than an eight-lug assembly. So, if you ditch the factory eight-lug stuff from the beginning and grab the 1/2-ton Ford hub and 1/2-ton Dodge rotor, you can walk out of the junkyard with a five-lug assembly and potentially save some coin in the process. We try to avoid custom machining when possible because if something goes wrong in the middle of nowhere, odds are good that a shop able to do the machining is far away. The Dodge rotors were used on trucks with Unitbearings and won’t fit over a serviceable hub configuration. The center hole as-shipped is 3.09 inches and needs to be opened to 3.87 inches to fit over the back of the hub. We had our neighbor do the work on a mill, but any shop with a lathe big enough to accept the rotor can do it. Notice the chamfer (angle) of the new hole. It will be used at our next brake job so the parts store can chock the rotor up to resurface it. Levenhagen also told us we’d only be able to use a 17-inch wheel. The backspacing of our 17-inch TrailReady wheels is 4.5 inches, which puts the 8.5-inch wheel right next to the caliper retaining bolt. There isn’t quite 1/2-inch of clearance between the head of the bolt and the wheel. We didn’t try it, since we don’t have a 16-inch wheel lying around, but we think with less backspacing a 16-inch wheel might work with this brake combination. We did try it with a 15-inch wheel with 3.5 inches of backspacing and the wheel hits the caliper. The “heart” of the whole shebang is the Ford-based knuckle, caliper bracket, and spindle. Ford used a unique five-bolt spindle pattern, while Chevy, Jeep, Dodge, and International ran the more common six-bolt pattern. We went with this setup, with the ’76-’79 Ford dual-piston calipers. You don’t necessarily need use the exact parts we used. We had some of these parts on the shelf already, so that’s what we used. If you are pulling parts and see a Ford F-250 in the ’yard with a Dana 44 holding dual-piston calipers and 5-bolt spindles up to ’96 you can use the corresponding parts from it to pull this big brake conversion off. If you aren’t concerned about machining the rotors in the future, you can hog the center with a die grinder. We saved cash on these Centric rotors by purchasing them from Rock Auto, but they’re still not as cheap as the $10 to cut them for future brake jobs, so we had the centers milled correctly. We knew going in that there might be some fitment problems and that the rotor interfered with the caliper mount. Taking down the OD of a rotor with a grinder can lead to some funky out-of-balance situations. Fortunately, any place that can cut drums can also machine down the OD of a rotor. The original OD was 13.23 inches. We cut it to 12.75 inches to clear the caliper mount, retaining bracket, and caliper. Now that we’ve said that, here’s the catch: some of the heavier and later Ford trucks used the five-bolt spindle that have inner bearings with a larger id. The smaller one measures 1.780 inches while the larger one is about 2.25 inches. Both are available from Randy’s Ring and Pinion. Ford gets squirrelly with changes over the years, so we weren’t able to nail the exact applications, but here is a side-by-side comparison of the small inner bearing spindle that we used (left) and the larger inner bearing spindle (right). You need the smaller one for the 5-on-5 1/2 pattern because the 1/2-ton Ford hub uses the smaller inner bearing. One of the parts we didn’t have on the shelf and couldn’t come up with in a junkyard was the Ford knuckles. Fortunately for us, Reid Racing offers these high-quality knuckles. They are cast and machined for high-steer arms. We’re not using high-steer arms at this time, so we used some 9⁄16-inch, fine-thread bolts and anti-seize to seal the holes. The cast-in steering arms accept 1-ton tie-rod ends. The knuckles also feature cast-in steering stops: two for each knuckle, whether turning right or left to keep the axleshafts from binding. While we had junkyard calipers, they weren’t on the shelf. They had been in the backyard for the past five years exposed to the elements, so it was questionable if they would work. We were also missing some of the necessary installation hardware. Fortunately, Rock Auto stocks loaded calipers with mounting hardware for only $78.79 each, which includes a $10 core fee. Because they are dual-piston, we had to order one right and one left caliper. Also note the Warn hubs that we were able to reuse along with our Ford hub and Jeep stub shaft.