Nobody ever wants to be called fat, but a special place is reserved in the world of rodding for rotund rods, and nobody gets upset when you call their 1935-48 vehicles fat-fendered. The term comes from the bulbous styling of early vehicles that ended pretty much in 1949 when nearly all manufacturers switched to a decidedly "boxy" slab-sided design christened the shoebox by most enthusiasts.
While certain fat-fendered models, such as '36 and '40 Fords, have always been popular with rodders, today just about any make and model is fair play, and aftermarket suppliers have stepped up with pieces to make rodding all brands a possibility.
Fat fenders are gaining momentum because they can still be bought for a fairly reasonable price, and, once done, they're very comfortable to drive and have plenty of room for the family or fairground supplies. The prices are even better once you move away from the Fords and Chevys and start looking into the off-brands.
The fact that these rods have fat fenders helps keep the build costs down. There's no need for the budget-minded at-home builder to spend extra money on flashy suspension and chassis components because they're all out of sight. The money saved here can be put into the wheels and tires, bodywork and trim, or the interior. Their extra weight also makes them ride better in most cases and can give the passengers an added sense of security thanks to the mass of metal around them.
We've gone though and listed a few brief tips you should look for if you're starting your first fat-fendered project, as well as a list of suppliers we've had great experiences working with on our own projects. So embrace the fat and wear it proudly!
