Simplicity. No matter where you look, it's part of our everyday lives. From the way we communicate with one another to the manner in which we upgrade antiquated automobiles to better coexist with modern mobiles, simplicity is everywhere. And while this straightforward way of doing things can oftentimes take the fun out of life, when it comes to updating the mechanical aspects of an old car, the easier it is on you, the quicker you can get your car on the road-and put the fun back in your life.
Personally, I don't mind cutting, welding, and even fabricating, especially when someone else is doing it for me (operating a digital camera to document the process can be quite strenuous on the index finger you know). But ultimately, I have zero patience, so the faster I can accomplish whatever it takes to drive whatever it is I'm working on, the better. That's precisely how I ended up going "bolt-in" when it came to retrofitting my '47 Chevy chassis with modern componentry. Above and beyond the entry-level skill factor, I also had to consider the original design of the '37-48 Chevy frames-their two-piece (top hat) style construction doesn't lend itself to being welded on too well. The top of the hat's a bit on the thin side, but the lower plate it's riveted to-the brim of the hat, as it were-is plenty beefy, making it ideal to bolt new crossmembers onto without worry of structural failure.
Kimbridge Enterprises in Snohomish, Washington, manufactures pretty much everything you need in the way of bolt-in parts and accessories for '37-57 Chevy passenger cars and '47-55 pickup frames (as well as '47-55 complete chassis). For those who may not be familiar with the name, but recognize the product, Kimbridge has been manufacturing these parts for years, so they're no newcomer to the frame components game. You can rest assured that every single part listed in their catalog has long ago been thoroughly tested for both fit and function.
No offense to the restoration buffs out there, but this Chevy's OE suspension, brakes, and steering were about as desirable as the rust that had taken a severe toll on the body. And as with the corroded sheetmetal-not to mention that 216 with a connecting rod hanging out the block-these parts have to go.
For the Fleetline's chassis, I went with Kimbridge's bolt-in IFS kit, adjustable bolt-in K-member, bolt-in brake pedal/master cylinder kit (with mini booster), and bolt-in engine mounts, which I ended up welding in later on. Probably the most labor-intensive aspect wound up being the removal of the stock K-member-or to be more precise, popping out all those stubborn factory rivets holding it in place. Otherwise, the stock frontend simply unbolted as a complete unit (and was easily rolled out from under the frame with the wheels still on) and the brake pedal bracket went in with nary an issue. Ultimately, I wound up swapping the Mustang II lower control arms and strut rods for a set of RideTech tubular lowers, which required welding a gusseted tube to the crossmember. My goal was to use ShockWaves front and rear-it's a chore trying to outfit the stock Mustang II lower with a basic airbag mount alone, not to mention working around the strut rod in attempt to find a suitable location for a shock absorber. But despite my after-the-fact modifications, my frontend remains a bolt-in unit, just as it was intended.
