Technical Questions & Answers - Honda Tuning Magazine

I’m doing a B16 swap in a CRX and my side engine mount doesn’t fit with my mount kit! I have a cable Integra transmission, and I have the rear mount bracket from an Integra. What’s going on here?

Tom

Tom, the driver’s side mount bracket should be correct, unless the B16 you sourced was from a Civic/del Sol from ’92–’00. If this is the case, you need a bracket from a ’90–’91 Integra or a Civic/CRX SiR. HaSport, Innovative, and many of the other mount companies should all follow this general rule.

Hi Ryan, my clutch has been a nonstop problem since I converted my car to manual transmission. I cannot get the fluid to bleed! I can’t even get the fluid to go through the line. Help!

Michael

The clutch system is a pretty simple one, Michael; let me give you a few pointers and suggestions. If the clutch master is totally empty, you can always try bench bleeding it. This means putting the line on the master cylinder and looping the hose back into the reservoir. This process gets the fluid going and starts the process, as well as getting out the bubbles. If this doesn’t work, I would try a new master cylinder. Next, put the line on the slave cylinder and begin the bleeding process. Have someone pump the clutch while another person cracks the bleed screw to release the fluid. If this doesn’t seem to work, possibly there is an issue or blockage at the slave cylinder. If all else fails, I sometimes use a basic air pump bleeder from Harbor Freight. You will need a decent air compressor for this method. Good luck troubleshooting, and I hope you can get it sorted out.

I was interested in trying to get rid of the brake master cylinder and booster on my ’89 Prelude but noticed that nobody makes a kit to do this. I was looking into Tilton, like the one you have on your Integra build, but it doesn’t seem like they have a kit available.

Elbert

Elbert, the brake system on the Integra is a one-off custom job with the pedals mocked into place, then a custom mount and support welded up to properly brace and mount the pedals. This same procedure can be done on your car as well, but it will take some work to be properly fitted. I suggest a good welder/fabricator for this job. You can also use one of my booster delete plates that mount the master cylinder straight to the firewall. This is not exactly the same, but it will eliminate the booster. I am unaware of your exact setup, or the reason behind needing the brake components relocated, but this might be the best option for you. Good luck!

Hi Rywire, I had you do a wire harness for me a long while ago, and had you place my MAP sensor at the ECU. We then ran a vacuum line into the car. Also, I was running ITBs, and I had you remove the idle valve from the harness completely. I’m now running a Type R intake manifold, and I’m wondering what to do about my idle valve and MAP sensor?

via the web

The MAP sensor is the easy one; simply hook the vacuum line straight into the plenum of the Type R intake manifold. The MAP sensor is just a pressure sensor for the intake plenum. It can be sourced from anywhere on the plenum, and does not necessarily need to be in the stock location. The idle valve, on the other hand, will have to be wired separately unless you happen to have an unused sensor and you can redirect the wires into the ECU. Most of my wire harnesses are OBD-I ECU plug configurations, so you’ll need to run one wire to a yellow/black switched 12-volt source, and the other to the ECU plug pin A9. You can double-check it based on your factory service manual.