Car Alarms: Passlock? Aftermarket? BCM? OR... GHOST???, car thief, abs brakes


Question
1.   1999 PONTIAC GRAND AM
2. Engine size 2.4 L4
3. Transmission AUTOMATIC
4. Mileage 160000
5. Fuel Injection
6. ABS brakes
7. Cruise control CRUISE CONTROL, A/C, POWER STEERING


My 1999 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2dr 4cyl automatic transmission is messing up. When I open a door, bump in to it, turn it on or do anything that involves electricity the car lights start flashing and clicking and if I hadn't turned of my alarm horn it would beep sometimes. It will even start flashing when I come to a stop light, and the engine is still running. It does this every time!

My pass lock light on the dash is constantly FLASHING. This all started happening a few months ago when I let my friend drive the car and the battery just died, I replaced the battery is there anyway to stop the flashing and clicking? It is driving me crazy. I have to turn my headlights on during the day so people will not think I stole the car.

Is this my pass lock? I can start my car every time and the pass lock light is FLASHING not staying on constantly. Can I expect my car to stop starting any day? We tried to cut the yellow wire attached to the ignition but it didn’t do any thing because I can start it every time so I doubt it is my ignition/ignition sensor.
Please help I don’t have the money or want to spend it on a dealer fixing it. I keep reading about installing a remote start to bypass the pass lock but my car STARTS. What do I do?

I tried to “re-learn” my car, nothing changed. I left it in the "on" position and the alarm light just kept blinking. I did the crank but don’t start, leave on for 10 min, turn off for two min and repeated it 3 times and still no change.

Just yesterday it started doing something new… it will unlock itself at random…while I am driving when I’m parked and best yet I locked my car with the remote than when I came out of the store I lifted the door handle and it just unlocked itself! That will really keep a car thief from taking it!!

I have been searching the web for months on this problem but all I can find it problems with the passlock and ignition cylinder.
The previous owner as a genius when he decided to install an after market alarm in the car when it already has a stock alarm. Could the two alarms be “fighting over control”?  

Answer
OK, first it sounds to me like whoever installed the aftermarket alarm did not do a very good job of installing it.  All of the problems you describe sound to me like you have an alarm and Remote start combo in the vehicle.  This also sounds like something has gone wrong with the added components.  If you are not familiar with installing and do not want to take it to a shop to have it checked out then I would suggest removing the after market system all together.  Here is a generic how to on removing an alarm:

Typically an alarm system would be installed on the driver's side interior of the vehicle.  This system would have been tapped into the ignition switch wiring running down from the key.  If you remove the dash panel(s) under the steering column you should be able to locate where the harness was added that goes to the alarm.  Disconnect each wire that was tapped in and insulate the factory wiring.  You will also see that at least one of the wires was cut, this is the vehicle starter wire that runs from the key to the starter.  This wire needs to be restored, I always recommend soldering all connections but crimp connectors should also work.  Make sure that you remove all connections to the alarm and that any wires that may be exposed are insulated and mounted in a way that they will not interfere with any moving parts and do not run the risk of shorting out.  Remember to take your time and follow each connection running from the brain of the system, leaving one wire connected that you are unsure of the function could cause problems in the future so be sure to remove every wire.

Once this is done and you have restored any and all factory wiring you may have to relearn the passlock system by turning the key to the run position (do not try to crank it at all) for 10 minutes.  This may not need to be done, as I am pretty confident once you remove the poorly installed aftermarket equipment your problems will go away.