Car Stereos: Amp going into protect mode, self tapping screws, ohm loads

Question
Hello again Brian,
 I have tested everything you recommended in your answer. All the currents checked out however I decided to move the ground wire from a seatbelt bolt and went ahead and mounted it directly to the chassie with self tapping screws for good measure. This move alone was giving me better sound! Unfortunately the amp was not fully losing power so the ground was not the issue. I went on to replace all the fuses except the ones on the amp, so i replaced the hot wire fuse and the fuse to the aux/cig port located in the cars fuse box. This still did not correct the problem. The sub seems to be working beautifully when the amp is feeding power but I have noticed that certain songs or higher volume levels seem to trigger the protection mode. Let me tell you what equipment I am working with:
AMP- Boss CHAOS 1100watt monoblock
SUB- Rockford Fosgate P3S 10" shallow mount I'm not sure the watts but maybe you know.  The speaker wire terminals (4 total 2 on each side) are marked 2x2ohms ( I ran speaker wire from the amp to one side of the sub then added another wire from one side of the speaker to the other). Is this A 2ohm load or a 1ohm load?
WIRES- scorche wiring kit 6 gage with capacitor (could this be the problem?)
SCORCHE CONVERTER- This id what i spliced into my back left and right speakers to get a signal for the RCA. of course the little level knobs are turned to the plus.

What now?? I really appreciate your timely answer and the detail you have given me pertaining to my problem. How do I leave you a review? I know this is alot of information, I just hope it is useful.

Thanks again,
Bryan

Answer
Hi Bryan,

The wiring setup you described for the subwoofer sounds like it would result in a 1-ohm load for the amplifier.  Your amplifier isn't stable for 1-ohm loads, so this certainly might be the source of your problem.

With a 2-ohm DVC subwoofer, you can choose to wire it as a 1-ohm load or a 4-ohm load; wiring it for 2-ohms isn't an option.  With your amplifier, you should wire the sub as a 4-ohm load.  To do this, connect the positive terminal on one voice coil to the amplifier's positive speaker output, and connect the negative terminal on the opposite voice coil to the amplifier's negative speaker output.  Then, connect a wire between the unused negative terminal on the first voice coil and the unused positive terminal on the second coil.  This is a series wiring configuration, and it should result in a 4-ohm load at the amplifier.  Your amp is rated for 250 watts RMS into a 4-ohm load; this is about half the sub's rated power, but you should still get pretty good results.  

Hope this helps!

Brian