QuestionWOW.. that is a lot more clear. Thanks a ton! I guess I just needed to see what things will never change because all of these options/choices I had were kinda confusing. I will keep you posted with my attenta/remote wire situation and again thank you so much, take care!
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Awesome, your starting to clear things up for me a little bit. I know this is a pretty cheap amp but if I bridge in series to get an 8 ohm load, will that be to much of a load for my amp to handle? Also are there any general tips or advice you can give me that will help me to know what I can and cannot hook up safely (sub:amp wise) so that I run everything correctly and not overpowering and blowing my subs, or not powering them enough; also how to know if I am not overloading my amp by wiring certain ways? One more sorry, if the remote antenna doesn't work do Ihave any other options to hook my remote up to? Thanks a ton for being patient and informative I really appreciate it!
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Okay, my amplifier is a Soundstorm Vanquish V600.2 hopefully this link will take you to a page with its specs.
http://www.a1bigaudio.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=1537
Hopefully this will be of some help but I still have a couple questions. Due to the little space I have to work with I've decided to go with a shallow mount subwoofer. Specifically the Power Acoustik STW-10. My question is, this subwoofer is a Dual voice coil, how would my amp work with it? And how would I hook it up being that there are 4 terminals instead of two on the sub? Also still looking for some advice on my remote wire hookup, I have a blue with white striped wire behind hu that is marked " ant cont" can I use this, if not what can I? Thanks again!
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Hi, I am trying to add a little bass to my truck which gives me very, very little space to work with. Because of this I have considered one of bass tubes made by Bazooka or Audiobahn. Each that I'm looking at have about 200-220W RMS. I have a real cheap 1200w Soundstorm/vanquish 2 channel amp that I figured I could use being it gives about 300-350w RMS. I only want just one bass tube. My question is, can I bridge this and if so how exactly is this done? I am totally confused on the ohms and why I should make sure each have the same "ohm load " and what not. Also I have a blue/white wire behind my headunit that is factory marked, " ant cont" is this what I should use for the remote wire? Finally I have two new rockford fosgate 6.5 in my door that if I could would like to power all with the same amp. Can I do this and how? So sorry to bombard you with TONS of questions.. I'd appreciate any help, suggestions, or comments. Thanks Mark!
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well.. theres alot here...
fist off, I'm not seeing a 2 channel 1200 watt soundstorm vanquish amp so if you have a model number that would help alot. I see a 4 channel though. so if your amp is 2 channel then, no, you cant use this amp to run both the subs and the door speakers. subs need to make bass notes and only bass notes. there is a circuit inside the amp called a crossover that filters out all sound except bass so that the subwoofers arnt making all freqencies. so basically, this needs to be on for the subs to sound right, but would need to be off for the door speakers to sound right, and you cant do both. so as for your last question, no you cant use the same amp.
If the amp is 4 channel you may be able to use 2 of the channels bridged together to run the sub, then the other 2 in stereo to run your door speakers, but lets clarrify the model first before we start on that.
as far as the ohms go. its pretty simple as well. whatever an amplifier's rated ohms is in stereo, just doubble the number for bridged mode. so if your amp says it will run 4 ohms in stereo, it will run only 8 ohms in bridged, etc. (of course your amp has to "support" bridged mode and some dont, so if you look at the speaker connectors on the amp, does it show bridged or not? (again, knowing the exact model number would help so lets get that before we move on)
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ok, well this amp says its rated for 1200 watts peak power at 4 ohms bridged. what I find on this sub says it's a dual 4 ohm sub, so you will have to wire its 2 coils in series to make an 8 ohm load which this amp would put out about 400 watts RMS at 8 ohms bridged which isnt bad.
You're really not going to get more than that out of this amp no matter how you wire it, it's extreamly overrated. the peak power rating is like, how much power it will put out just as it bursts into flames.
Just make sure the box is sealed air tight, made well, and to the specs that the sub is made for and you'll be good to go.
as for the remote wire, you can try that "ant cont" if you want, usually antenna triggers are only on with the radio and turn off for the cd player, but the fact that it sugests "constant" maybe means its always on? or maybe they mean antenna controll? weird, cant hurt to try though.
Let me know how it goes.
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let me try to make a few statements that should all go together to make sense and clear it up.
First of all never combine different subs together, ALWAYS if you're going to use more than 1 sub, use the same brand, model and version (dual or single coil, 4,8,2 ohms whatever, they just have to be the same)
that being said, you have a certain number of coils with your subs. you either have 1 coil on 1 sub, or 1 coil on each sub, or 2 coils on each sub. it doenst matter how you look at it, there just a certain number of coils and they all have to be used.
now if you combine those coils all in series you muliply the ohms of 1 coil times the number of coils you're putting together in series.
if you combine them in parallel you DIVIDE the ohms of 1 coil by the number of coils.
If you have a minimum of 4 coils. you can combine them in series and parallel groups and the math is the same, just use the same math for each group you combine together to get other combinations.
Take a look at this link, you can pick the number of subs you have and wether they're single or dual coil subs and this will show you the options you have.
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wi
an amplifier will always allow for a higher ohm number but not always allow a lowwer number. in other words most amps have a load that they are "stable" to. if the amp is stable to 4 ohms, then 8 or 16 or anywhere in between will work but you cant go below 4 ohms or the amp will overheat and perform poorly.
Also an amplifier will generally put out more power the lowwer the ohms you go, so if the amp is 4 ohm stable it will put out the most power at 4 ohms, so if you run it at 8 ohms it will work fine, but put out less power.
Amps shouldnt always be run at the lowwest number though. sometimes they offer very little more power but alot more distorion when you drop to the claimed stable ohms.
The amp you have says it supports 2 ohm loads in stereo or 4 ohm loads in bridged. but due to the cheapness of the amp you may consider just runing it at 8 ohms bridged instead of 4 ohms. it will distort less, give off less heat, and be more energy efficient.
most amplifiers have fuses on them, as yours does. there's a pretty simple rule of thumb for judging how "true" the amp will perform to its rated power by using these fuses.
First off there's basically 2 types of amps, class AB and class D. for the calculation substitute e with .6 for a class AB amp, and .9 for a class D amp.
(AMPS X Volts) X E = watts
the amp you have is a class AB. and you need to measure your battery voltage to get volts (usually between 13.8 and 14.4 when the car is running. the AMPS is the total of the fuses. your amp has 2 20 amp fuses. so the calc would be this:
(40 x 14.4) x .6 = 346 watts.
this is the amount of power your amplifier can put out before the fuses pop (technically) so even though it may be plastered with fancy stickers saying 1200 watts, the numbers dont lie.
So basically this is why I'm saying I'd run this amp at 8 ohms, not the rated 4 ohms because you're just not going to get more than this out of it anyway.
hope this all helps, and as for the remote antenna wire, try it first and let me know, there are other options. I've never seen an after market cd player that didnt have a "remote" wire that was an actuall amp turn on wire and not specifically for the antenna. usually they are blue with a white stripe so it's probably the right one.
Again Good luck!!!
Answeryou're welcome. hopefully its not so much it confuses you more!!! basicaly they are all factors and if you understand them all, each one being basically a point in itself, it should all come together to show you how it all works (I hope!)
Again good luck!
