QuestionI have a 1990 Cadillac DeVille that won't start. My son drove it to the gas station and after he put gas in it, it would not start. The lights come on and the battery doesn't seem to be an issue, but it won't do anything. I can't believe the starter would go bad that quick and it doesn't even attempt to start.
AnswerHello,
Guess what? I can't believe the starter went bad either!
MOST common problem: GM Anti theft junk, which never stopped thieves, but liker your son, it stopped authorized drivers!
I have answered this issue hundreds of times here over the years. That big ugly black thing in your ignition key used to be wrongly called a computer chip. It's actually a resistor. There are 15 different combinations. GM continued offering this on the Corvette from 1986-2005 and since it was considered "high tech" electronics in 1986, how good can any electronic system be for 6 months, much less 19 years?
I was bypassing this system on the 90 Devilles for remote start in in 1990! Now, you could go and get ripped off by the dealer for $500+ to change the ignition lock and harness. You could go to the locksmith and pay about $250 for the same identical ignition lock, because the locksmith gets the keys and lock from the same company that sells locks and keys to GM, which the dealer sells. Check out my last answer to the person with the Ford Focus and you will understand GM doesn't make their on locks and keys.
To get the engine to start, it takes patience and a little playing around, but this is only to get you to an alarm store without towing the car.
Tilt the column in different positions and try starting the engine. If it doesn't start (should have), put your foot on the brake and with the key on and tilting the column, try starting in neutral. I know all this sounds strange, but when I explain the problem and the solution, you will understand.
There are two white wires involved. One that supplies power up to the key. When the key is inserted, the key bridges the connector for the other side of the other white wire that runs to the VATS module that reads the resistor value on the key and if correct, the engine will crank and run.
OK, how does that relate to my problem? These white wires that run up and down the steering column are not normal wires consistent with the rest of the steering column. They are very thin. I liken it to the phone wires used on a land line.
These wires are notorious for breakage! They are so thin, the break is almost impossible to find. They break inside the white plastic insulation. Normally you could chck for a break in one of these wires with an ohm meter, however, movement, as I was explaining, puts the wire back together and it may not show open when testing. I hate this system, and unfortunately, I know the system better than most.
OK, how do I fix this? You could replace the ignition lock just to have it strand you again, or you can bypass and never have the problem again. The second answer is the way most go.
To bypass the VATS. If you don't ant to screw around, here is the easiest quickest way to do i and it shouldn't cost more than $50. Call alarm stores (even BestBuy) and see if they have the VATS bypass kit. The bypass kit comes with every remote start (at least they did) and were extra for any car except the GM with VATS. In other words the kit cost them nothing!
The alarm store can bypass for you. Or (and you really need to consider the fuel involved running around) you can do it yourself, but if not done properly and has a bad connection, can strand you or your son once again. You need to read the resistance on the resistor in the key. You are allowed with in 10% variance. Then you go to Radio Shack and get a matching resistor. Remove the black plastic hush panel under the driver's dash which requires a 7 mm or 9/32 socket. (same size). Then on the firewall you have either 10mm or wing nuts (could be either or). From the driver's floor coming out of the firewall side of the steering column support bracket, you will see numerous wires. You will see what appears to be an orange wire. It is an orange sheath and if you trace it to the beginning, and I don't remember on 1990 if these wires went to the junction block on the fire wall or not, you will see two thin white wires in this orange sheath. Make sure it is not just an orange wire! Once you find these two very thin wires, cut them both and strip the ends. You can use but connectors putting the resistor in between the two thin white wires bypassing the steering column. To do it right though is to solder both ends after you installed heat shrink on both wires melt the heat shrink and the connection will never come loose! The vats is successfully bypassed and engine should start.
What you are doing is lying to the computer because it sees the correct key every time. You now have created yet another problem though. Old cars are stolen all the time and chances are to the thief, the vats was bypassed as described.
The method taught in our jails still exists and our company that exclusively repaired theft recovered and vandalized vehicles generated millions of dollars over the years all because of the Saginaw steering column in your car. Unlike locksmiths would think of a theft method through the ignition lock, this column can be compromised in as little as 30 seconds by breaking the left side of the steering column accessing the locking mechanisms (my words used from my 1998 book "Auto theft, Let the Truth Be Known!" for the movie "gone in 60 seconds"). Yes, I had some involvement with the movie!
I would suggest that you install a starter kill. Real easy if you are doing this at the time of the bypass.
Go to an auto parts store and buy (1) roll of 12 gauge wire. Get a package of yellow but connectors, a cheap test light, package of zip ties, a wire stripper and crimper and a heavy rated small one throw toggle switch.
While at the steering column, you are look for a 10 or 12 gauge purple or yellow wire. If purple just cut it and strip both ends. If they used yellow that year, you might find a couple. You need to probe with test light and turn ignition to start after you did the vats bypass.
When you find the wire that has power in the start position, that's the one you are looking for. Cut and strip the ends.
Take your 10' roll of wire and cut in half. Attach to toggle. Wrap your tape tightly to the two wires all the way down leaving about 6" without tape at the other end. Strip the wires and crimp the yellow butt connectors on. slide the butt connectors on your cut ignition ends, crimp. Lightly pull to see if the connectors hold. If they do tape the ignition wires tightly over the butt connectors. Then tape to your harness. It is an extremely long harness, however, this way you can put it anywhere.
What I would do on a car like yours is zip tie the harness to factory wiring or the dash. Then run it under the driver's kick panel and just lift up the inside edge of the plastic door sill and place the switch under it with the handle sticking out. People would just place a rag over the silver throw, and sometimes I would paint the silver colored switch to interior color. This went un-noticed by thieves. Some installers would permanently mount this style switch as well as alarm disable switch under the dash to the left of the column defeating the purpose. here is the first place a thief would put his hand on a car that the engine din't start or the siren was blaring? Right in that location!
Take the remaining wiring and just loop it and tie to factory harness.
Now you have the same protection as vats, but now you control it. Before you park the car while you are driving, just toggle the switch. It will not stall the engine. It just won't start until you flip the switch the other way.
I hope I have not given you too much information where it confuses you. For the average guy, about 20 minutes to bypass vats and about 20 minutes to install starter kill.
I would not recommend if I didn't think you needed the starter kill. Anyway--good luck and let me know how it all works out!
http://www.autotheftexpert.com
