QuestionHello, and thank you for your assistance. My 1996 Deville 4.6 will not start. I have checked the Key, and got a new one per the VIN, and still no start. I have gchecked the Ohms at the Ignition switch plug in under the dash, and the pass key system appears to be working correctly.. Per all the other Information you haev provided here online. I am tempted to remove the Intake and have the Starter itself Bench tested,, Unless You can provide me with any information as to Jumpering the Starter other wise, or testing for voltage on the correct terminal?? I seem to haev remembered ont of the threads here, saying you can jumper the Bat 1 terminal, to the?? Ignition Relay?? I was Unclear on tyhat proceedure. ANY help would be appreciated. Al I hear when I turn the Key is a clicking sound comming from the relay under the ood,, By the Fuse Panel,, not sure if it is the Ignition relay, or Starter relay,, is there a way to test those?? O seen the schematic,, on the relay, and it all Ohmed out correctly,, HELP PLEASE,, hahah,, really though,, short of taking it completely apart, I am LOST.
Thank You in advance,,,
Jeff
AnswerHi Jeff,
Looks like you have done your homework on this one through testing and reading past posts. Its nice to know that people do read though my posts to see if it might help with their problem. Let me give you alittle direction and lets see if this will help find the problem...hopefully a bad relay.
The clicking sound you hear under hood could be coming from the starter enable relay which is located under the big black plastic cover in front of the LF strut. A quick test for bad contacts is to remove a different relay with the same part number from a totally different system like maybe ABS or cooling fans and install it in place of the old relay and see what happens when you turn the key. If it cranks replace the relay. If it clicks swap the relays back and continue testing.
At this point I'm sure you have already verified that the battery is good and shows at least 9.6 volts with the key in the crank position. The positive cable at the battery likes to corrode due to the case cracking so remove both cables and make sure that there isn't any blue corrosion. If so clean it and reinstall the cables and retry the starter. Also on the front of the engine where the belt is and behind the RF headlamp you will see a short negative black battery cable. Make sure where it attaches to the engine that nut is tight. For some reason they like to loosen up.
Try holding the key in the start position with your foot on the brake and shift through the gears. If it starts the neutral safety switch could be bad or out of adjustment.
With the starter enable relay removed test for battery voltage on 1 terminal. Then with the key in start test for battery/ignition voltage at another terminal. You could have a worn ignition switch that isn't allowing full voltage from the ignition switch through the neutral safety switch to the relay.
While leaning over the RF fender look at the front of the rear cylinder head and you will see a purple wire in a single connector. Separate it and when you turn the key battery voltage should come out of the relay to that connector. If it does then jumper the other side of the purple wire that goes to the intake manifold to the battery positive terminal and see if the starter turns the engine.
If still nothing then I have to agree with you that taking the intake manifold off to remove and test the starter is the next step. Taking the manifold off can be an intimidating job requiring 2 special tools to disconnect the fuel lines. It might be best to consult a shop manual to see what is involved to be sure you are up to the task. We as professional mechanics/technicians hate nothing more than to start diagnosing something that is already half apart so it might be best to take it to your mechanic if unsure of the procedure or lack of tools.
Good luck and let me know if you need anymore help. Bill
