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I HAVE A 92 SEVILLE SLS THAT I HAVE PUT A NEW STARTER,NEW DISTRIBUTOR,NEW BATTERY,AND CLEANED ALL THE GROUND CONNECTIONS TO AND IT WILL NOT START WHEN IT IS HOT.AS SOON AS IT COOLS DOWN,AGAIN,IT WILL START RIGHT UP.IS IT POSSABLE THAT THE STARTER,WHICH IS NOT DELCO,IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH FOR THIS CAR AND THE CAR WOULD REQUIRE A DELCO STARTER.I KNOW I HAD THAT PROBLEM WITH AN ALTERNATOR ON MY LINCOLN MARK VIII HAD TO BE FORD OR THE LIGHTS FLICKERED.ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED,THANKS FOR YOUR TIME,JIMMY
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Hi Jimmy, What exactly does the starter do? When you turn the key does the engine crank at normal speed but not start, does it crank slowly, does it not crank at all, do the dash lights turn off like a dead battery? If it cranks at normal speed but not start can you determine if you are missing fuel pressure, should be at least 35psi, or spark. I need to know what it does otherwise any one of the new parts could be bad but it sounds like a module or starter solinoid problem. Let me know so I can be more help. Bill HI BILL,SHOULD HAVE EXPLAINED BETTER,SORRY.COLD THE CAR IS GREAT,ONCE IT'S HOT,7 OUT OF 10 TIMES IT DOESN'T START.I HAVE ALL ACCESSORIES,LIGHTS,RADIO,ETC.WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY YOU HEAR THE STARTER SELONOID CLICK,OR YOU HEAR NOTHING AT ALL.I PUT IN A BRAND NEW DELCO STARTER AND FUSE LINK YESTERDAY.I FOUND WHILE DOING THE STARTER THAT THE FUSE LINK WAS NOT BURNT THRU,BUT WAS WEAK AND OR BROKEN.THOUGHT FOR SURE THE LINK WAS THE PROBLEM,BUT IT FAILED ME AGAIN WHEN I LET IT GET HOT AND TRIED TO RESTART.SO NOW,I HAVE A NEW DELCO STARTER,NEW BATTERY,NEW DISTRIBUTOR,AND NEW FUSE LINK,I ALSO CLEANED THE GROUND CONN.ON THE BLOCK AND THE GROUNDS ON THE FRONT X-MEMBER.I'M AT A TOTAL LOSS,THANKS AND PLEASE ADVISE,JIMMY
AnswerHi Jimmy, That makes things alot clearer. From your description it sounds like a bad starter soliniod because the same thing would happen on my car...replaced the solinoid and the problem was gone...but wouldn't happen right away. It needed 2 months or so and then the header heat cooked another solinoid. However with 3 differant starters the problem is the same that should eliminate the starter and solinoid as the problem. Looking at the wiring diagram the power comes from the battery to maxi fuse 1 to ignition switch to starter relay to nuetral safety switch to starter. Useing a digital voltmeter to test for battery voltage comming out of each componant and at the stater solinoid terminals with the key on or cranking depending where in the circuit you are checking will narrow the problem area. Doing a voltage drop test where you place the pos lead on the pos battery terminal and neg lead on the starter small post will test all the connections in that if the reading is higher than .2 volts then further testing to isolate will be needed. Also putting it on the big battery cable on the starter will test it. Then switch to the neg battery post and starter housing. You will need to be trying to crank the engine or have the engine cranking for these tests to be accurate. Hope that shows the problem. Bill
